Spotted Python — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Spotted Python — origin: Eastern and north-eastern Australia (Queensland, New South Wales) and southern New Guinea. The species is listed on CITES Appendix II (like all Pythonidae): keeping, sale and transport may require supporting documentation depending on local/EU regulations. As the export of wild animals from Australia is banned, only captive-bred specimens circulate legally in the trade..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C

Cool side24–27 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

Basking spot31–33 °C

Provide a genuine thermal gradient, with a warm point/basking zone on one side and a distinctly cooler opposite side. A moderate night-time drop is tolerated. Always regulate the heating with a thermostat and shield every heat source (heat mat, spotlight behind mesh) to prevent burns.

Enclosure (adult)

90 × 45 × 45 cm

Terrestrial, semi-arboreal-leaning terrarium/vivarium, enclosed and well ventilated, with branches and height for climbing

Minimum for an adult; bigger is always better (a longer enclosure is ideal). A fairly keen climber: provide sturdy branches, cork and at least two hides (a warm-side and a cool-side one). Secure, lockable lid, as these pythons are excellent escape artists.

Humidity

50–65 %

Moderate ambient humidity. Raise it briefly during sheds by misting or adding a humid hide, then let it dry out to prevent scale rot and respiratory infections linked to stagnant humidity.

Substrate

Aspen shavingsCoconut fibreCypress bark/mulchPaper towel (quarantine/hygiene)

Dry to slightly damp substrate, absorbent and dust-free. Avoid softwoods such as pine/cedar (toxic, irritating oils). Remove faeces promptly and make sure the snake does not ingest substrate while feeding.

UVB

Optional

Not essential, as this is a nocturnal species; a low-output UVB tube still benefits its metabolism as long as there are enough shaded areas. Always pair it with a regular, consistent photoperiod.

Water source

Always available

A large bowl of clean water available at all times, wide enough for the snake to soak in, especially during shedding. Change the water regularly and disinfect the bowl.

Origin

Pythonidae

Eastern and north-eastern Australia (Queensland, New South Wales) and southern New Guinea. The species is listed on CITES Appendix II (like all Pythonidae): keeping, sale and transport may require supporting documentation depending on local/EU regulations. As the export of wild animals from Australia is banned, only captive-bred specimens circulate legally in the trade.

Feeding & health

Diet

Strict carnivore (rodents) — Appropriately sized mice and small rats (prey ≈ the widest diameter of the snake's body), preferably frozen-thawed

Juveniles: a pinky/fuzzy about once a week. Adults: one suitably sized prey item every week or two. A species prone to obesity: do not overfeed. Avoid live prey (risk of bites/injury to the snake).

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 10–20 eggs/young. Clutches are generally larger than in Antaresia childreni. The female coils around and broods her eggs (maternal incubation is possible); in an incubator, roughly two months at a warm temperature and high humidity. A winter cooling cycle (brumation) stimulates breeding.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (open-mouth breathing, wheezing, mucus) linked to unsuitable cold or humidity
Incomplete sheds / dysecdysis (retained patches, especially over the eyes and tail tip) due to lack of humidity
Mites (Ophionyssus natricis)
Scale rot / bacterial dermatitis on overly damp, dirty substrate
Stomatitis (mouth rot) and obesity from overfeeding

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 4 documented genes and 2 named combos for Spotted Python.

Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
Granite pepperedInc.d
Ebony (Hypermelanistic) dark geneInc.d
AxanthicRec

Named combos — 2 documented combined morphs

Albino GraniteSnow

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Spotted Python × Spotted Python

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the spotted python.

Is the Spotted Python a good snake to start with?▾

Its difficulty level is rated beginner to intermediate, making it an excellent first python. It becomes docile and easy to handle once acclimated and, as a non-venomous constrictor, is harmless to humans. Juveniles can remain a little nervous and may bite as a defensive reflex, but they tame quickly with gentle, regular handling.

How big does this species get as an adult?▾

It's a medium-small python, measuring 100 to 140 cm in total length, with a few individuals rarely exceeding 140 cm. Females are generally a bit larger and more robust than males.

Does the Spotted Python need a tall terrarium?▾

Yes, to some extent, since this species has a fairly climbing temperament and a semi-arboreal tendency. The minimum for an adult is around 90 x 45 x 45 cm, but a 120 cm long terrarium is ideal; furnish it with sturdy branches, cork bark and height for climbing. The lid must be lockable, as these pythons are excellent escape artists.

What temperature gradient does it need?▾

A genuine thermal gradient is needed, with a warm side at 30-32 °C and a cool side at 24-27 °C, complemented by a hot spot or basking zone at 31-33 °C. At night, the temperature can drop to around 20-22 °C. Heating should always be controlled with a thermostat, and every heat source must be shielded to prevent burns.

What humidity level should be maintained?▾

A moderate level of 50 to 65% works very well. Raise it briefly to around 65-70% during sheds by misting or adding a humid hide, then let it dry out to prevent scale rot and respiratory infections linked to stagnant humidity.

What does the Spotted Python eat, and how often?▾

It's a strict carnivore that feeds on rodents: appropriately sized mice and small rats, ideally offered frozen-thawed. Feed juveniles a pinky or fuzzy mouse every 5 to 7 days, and adults a suitably sized prey item every 10 to 14 days.

Why avoid live prey and overfeeding?▾

Live prey is not recommended since it can bite and injure the snake, which is why frozen-thawed prey is preferable. The species is also prone to obesity: choose prey with a diameter close to the widest part of the body and never feed too often.

Is UVB lighting necessary?▾

No, UVB isn't essential since the species is nocturnal and crepuscular. A low-output UVB tube (2-5%, shaded T5 type) is nonetheless beneficial for metabolism if shaded areas are available, provided a regular 12-hour photoperiod is maintained.

Which substrate should be chosen, and which avoided?▾

Aspen shavings, coconut fibre, cypress bark or mulch, or absorbent paper for quarantine all work well. Softwoods such as pine or cedar must absolutely be avoided, since their irritating oils are toxic; keep the substrate absorbent and dust-free, and make sure the snake doesn't ingest it while feeding.

How should the water dish be set up?▾

A large bowl of clean water should be available at all times, wide enough for the snake to soak in, which it particularly enjoys during shedding. Change the water regularly and disinfect the container to prevent bacterial growth.

How does the Spotted Python reproduce?▾

It's oviparous and typically lays 10 to 20 eggs, clutches that are on average larger than the Children's Python's. The female coils around her eggs to brood them; in an incubator, hatching occurs in about 50 to 60 days at 30-31 °C with high humidity. A winter cooling cycle (brumation) stimulates breeding.

What's its lifespan, and what health issues should be watched for?▾

It's a long-lived species: 20 to 30 years in captivity, a commitment spanning several decades. The most common issues are respiratory infections (unsuitable cold or humidity), incomplete sheds from lack of humidity, mites, scale rot on dirty substrate, as well as stomatitis and obesity linked to overfeeding.

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