Green Bush Viper — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Green Bush Viper — origin: Central and West Africa: humid tropical forests at low and mid altitude (Nigeria, Cameroon, Gabon, Congo, DRC, Angola, Uganda, etc.). A strictly arboreal species of canopies and dense undergrowth..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C

Cool side22–24 °C

Warm side26–28 °C

A humid-forest species, NOT sun-loving: no intense hot spot. Warm the environment gently (cable/panel/low-wattage spot regulated by a thermostat, out of direct reach) and leave a gradient. Absolutely avoid exceeding 30 °C, which is poorly tolerated. A natural night-time drop is welcome.

Enclosure (adult)

60 × 45 × 60 cm

Vertically oriented arboreal terrarium, richly planted and fitted with numerous horizontal branches. A perfectly secure and lockable closure (venomous species), ideally with an airlock or escape-proof device.

Minimum dimensions for an adult; height and the density of branches/plants take priority over floor area. Provide multiple perches at different heights and dense foliage (live or artificial plants) for visual refuge. A good ventilation/humidity balance to avoid stagnant air while maintaining high humidity.

Humidity

70–90 %

High and stable humidity. Regular misting (1 to 2 times/day) with partial drying periods in between; avoid permanent condensation and waterlogged substrate, which promote respiratory and skin infections.

Substrate

Coco fibreFertiliser-free soil/peatPine/cypress barkSphagnum moss (humid areas)Leaf litter

A substrate that retains moisture well, combined with a layer of leaf litter and moss. Keep it humid without being waterlogged and promptly remove soiling and uneaten prey to limit mould and bacteria.

UVB

Optional

Not essential (a nocturnal undergrowth species), but low UVB lighting (Ferguson zone 1, low-power T5 or low-% tube filtered by the foliage) is beneficial for metabolism and behaviour. Always provide dense shaded areas.

Water source

Always available

A small dish of clean water renewed frequently. The animal drinks mainly the droplets deposited on the foliage and décor during misting: these are essential to its hydration.

Origin

Viperidae

Central and West Africa: humid tropical forests at low and mid altitude (Nigeria, Cameroon, Gabon, Congo, DRC, Angola, Uganda, etc.). A strictly arboreal species of canopies and dense undergrowth.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore — Rodents (suitably sized mice/pinkies), and more occasionally lizards and amphibians.

Feed with appropriately sized dead (thawed) prey, every 1 to 2 weeks for an adult, spacing meals out to avoid obesity. Neonates are NOTORIOUSLY DIFFICULT to start: they often require scented prey (scenting with gecko/frog) or even assist-feeding. Feeding is done exclusively with long tongs, as the animal remains venomous.

Breeding

Viviparous

Seasonal breeding triggered by a thermal/photoperiodic drop and a humidity peak. Litters of 5 to 15 neonates with remarkable colour polymorphism within a single litter. Rearing the juveniles is tricky (difficult feeding start). Breeding should be reserved for keepers experienced with venomous species.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (linked to insufficient ventilation or overly waterlogged substrate)
Dysecdysis (incomplete sheds) in case of inadequate humidity
Stomatitis (mouth necrosis / 'mouth rot')
Internal and external parasitism, very common in imported wild-caught specimens
Dehydration and feeding refusal linked to acclimatisation stress

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 2 documented genes for Green Bush Viper.

Melanistic (Black) black phaseInc.d
Blue (Hypothetical) axanthicRec

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Green Bush Viper × Green Bush Viper

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the green bush viper.

Is the green bush viper dangerous?▾

Yes: it is a VENOMOUS species whose haemotoxic venom causes severe clotting disorders, haemorrhaging and intense pain, with no specific antivenom — only symptomatic treatment is possible. Defensive but not aggressive, it usually stays motionless and then strikes very fast if disturbed. This is not a beginner species: it is NEVER handled by hand, only with a hook or tongs, by experienced and duly licensed keepers.

What terrarium should be provided for this arboreal viper?▾

It needs a vertically oriented arboreal terrarium of at least 60 x 45 x 60 cm, where height and branch density matter more than floor space. Provide numerous perches at different heights and dense foliage (real or artificial) for visual refuge, with a perfectly secure, lockable enclosure, ideally fitted with an escape-proof airlock.

What temperatures suit it?▾

This is a humid-forest species, NOT sun-loving: no intense hot spot. Warm the environment gently with a warm side at 26-28°C and a cool side at 22-24°C, never exceeding 30°C, which is poorly tolerated. A natural night-time drop to 20°C is welcome.

What humidity should be maintained without encouraging disease?▾

Maintain a high, stable humidity of 70 to 90% with 1 to 2 mistings per day, allowing partial drying periods in between. Avoid permanent condensation and waterlogged substrate, which promote respiratory and skin infections.

What substrate is suitable?▾

A substrate that retains moisture well, such as coco fibre, fertiliser-free soil or peat, pine or cypress bark, with sphagnum moss in humid areas and a layer of dead leaves. Keep it moist without being waterlogged, and promptly remove soiling and uneaten prey to limit mould and bacteria.

What does it eat, and why are neonates hard to start feeding?▾

It feeds mainly on rodents (appropriately sized mice or pinkies), more occasionally on lizards and amphibians, as thawed dead prey every 1 to 2 weeks for an adult. Neonates are notoriously difficult: they often require prey scented with gecko or frog, or even assisted feeding. Feeding is always done with long tongs.

How should it be given water?▾

Provide a small dish of clean water renewed frequently, but the animal mainly drinks droplets deposited on the foliage during misting: these are essential to its hydration.

Does it need UVB?▾

This is not essential for this nocturnal undergrowth species, but low UVB lighting (Ferguson zone 1, low-power T5 tube filtered by foliage) is beneficial for metabolism and behaviour. Always provide dense shaded areas.

How does it reproduce, and what is litter colour polymorphism?▾

It is viviparous and gives birth to 5 to 15 neonates, with seasonal breeding triggered by a thermal and photoperiodic drop combined with a humidity peak. Remarkably, within a single litter the young show spectacular colour polymorphism (green, yellow, orange, grey…). Breeding should be left to keepers experienced with venomous species.

How long does it live, and why are imports fragile?▾

With good care it lives 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. But imported wild-caught specimens, which make up most of the market, often have a reduced lifespan due to stress, dehydration and parasitism.

What health problems should be watched for?▾

The most common are respiratory infections (insufficient ventilation or overly waterlogged substrate), incomplete sheds (dysecdysis) with inadequate humidity, stomatitis (mouth rot), internal and external parasitism very common in imports, as well as dehydration and feeding refusal linked to acclimatisation stress.

How is it distinguished from the hairy bush viper (Atheris hispida)?▾

The green bush viper has strongly keeled but "flattened" scales (rough but not spiny), whereas Atheris hispida has extremely elongated, bristly dorsal scales giving it a "spiny dragon" appearance. Its tail is prehensile and its colour polymorphism is remarkable.

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