Species profile · Boidae

Candoia carinata

Complete care sheet and morph genetics registry for the pacific ground boa — husbandry parameters, diet and breeding.

Solomon Island Ground BoaSIGBCandoiaPaulson's Ground BoaSanta Isabel Boa
Adult size
0.4–1.2 m
Lifespan
15–20 yrs
Difficulty
Intermediate
Temperament
Nocturnal
Activity
Nocturnal
Reproduction
Viviparous
01

Husbandry requirements

Pacific ground boa — origin: New Guinea, Indonesia (Moluccas, Papua), the Solomon archipelago and other Melanesian islands (western Pacific)..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C
Cool side24–26 °C
Warm side28–30 °C

A low-altitude nocturnal species: NO intense hot spot (basking) needed or desirable. Create a gentle thermal gradient with a heat cable or mat regulated by a thermostat; avoid overheating. Natural night-time drop tolerated (do not go below ~22 °C).

Enclosure (adult)
90 × 45 × 45 cm

Closed tropical terrarium, well ventilated and very secure, with low, sturdy branches for climbing (especially for juveniles, which are more arboreal).

The minimum dimensions given are for an adult female; a male is content with a smaller volume. Provide several hides (including a humid zone), branches and a loose substrate allowing burrowing. Lid and openings perfectly secured: a good escape artist.

Humidity
60–80 %

A humid, stable ambience; increase temporarily (up to ~80-90%) during sheds. Ensure good ventilation to avoid stagnant air and mould.

Substrate
Coco fibreFertiliser-free potting soil/peatSphagnum mossDead leaf litterCypress bark

Use a loose substrate thick enough to allow burrowing, a natural behaviour favoured by the angular 'shark-shaped' snout. Keep slightly damp without waterlogging; avoid any water-saturated substrate (risk of dermatitis and respiratory infection).

UVB
Optional

Not essential, as it is a nocturnal species. Low UVB (Ferguson zone 1, low-intensity T5 tube 2-5%) is beneficial but optional; always provide shaded hides that allow the animal to avoid exposure.

Water source
Always available

A large container of clean water available at all times, wide enough to allow the snake to immerse itself; renew regularly and clean it to avoid infections.

Origin
Boidae

New Guinea, Indonesia (Moluccas, Papua), the Solomon archipelago and other Melanesian islands (western Pacific).

02

Feeding & health

Diet

Strict carnivore (whole prey) — Adults: appropriately sized rodents (mice, sometimes young rats). Juveniles: often prefer lizards or amphibians and may refuse rodents.

Weaning juveniles onto rodents is a known challenge: resorting to 'scenting' (rubbing the prey with a lizard/gecko) is sometimes necessary. Feed every 7-14 days depending on age; avoid excess weight. Imported wild specimens are frequently anorexic at first — quarantine and veterinary monitoring recommended.

Breeding
Viviparous

Highly variable litters; often 5-15 neonates in captivity, exceptionally up to ~30. Long gestation; breeding females require good body condition and a slight seasonal cooling.

Health watch points
  • Internal parasites (nematodes, protozoa) — very common in wild-caught specimens; faecal examination and deworming advised
  • Respiratory infections (unsuitable temperature or humidity, stagnant air)
  • Stomatitis / 'mouth rot'
  • Anorexia and dehydration linked to import stress (wild specimens)
  • Difficult shedding (dysecdysis) from lack of humidity
03

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 2 documented genes for Pacific ground boa.

  • Axanthic (Isabel Trait?) aneryDom
  • HypomelanisticDom
05

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the pacific ground boa.

How big does the Pacific ground boa get, and why are males so small?▾
The species shows strong sexual dimorphism: males stay small and slender, around 40 to 60 cm, while females are much larger and heavier, at 80 to 120 cm. The setup should therefore be sized according to the animal's sex.
What terrarium is needed, and are branches required?▾
Allow at least 90 x 45 x 45 cm for an adult female, while a male is content with a smaller volume. Provide several hides including a humid zone, a loose substrate, and above all low, sturdy branches, since juveniles are noticeably more arboreal than adults.
Is this snake a good escape artist?▾
Yes, it has a well-known reputation as an escape artist: the lid and every opening of the terrarium must be perfectly secure. A closed tropical terrarium, well ventilated but locked, is essential to prevent escapes.
What temperatures should be offered?▾
This low-altitude nocturnal species does not need an intense hot spot: create a gentle gradient with a warm side at 28-30 °C and a cool side at 24-26 °C. Use a heat cable or mat regulated by a thermostat, avoiding overheating, and tolerate a night-time drop without going below 22 °C.
What humidity level should be targeted?▾
Maintain a humid, stable environment of 60 to 80%, temporarily increased to 80-90% during sheds. Good ventilation remains essential to avoid stagnant air and mould.
Why does this boa like to burrow?▾
Its angular, shark-shaped snout is adapted for burrowing into leaf litter: provide it with a loose, fairly thick substrate such as coco fibre, sphagnum moss, fertiliser-free peat, or dead leaf litter. Keep it slightly damp without ever waterlogging it, which would expose the animal to dermatitis and respiratory infections.
What does it eat, and how often?▾
It's a strict carnivore that eats whole prey, every 7 to 14 days depending on age, avoiding excess weight. Adults take appropriately sized rodents, but juveniles often prefer lizards or amphibians and may refuse rodents.
How can a juvenile be switched onto rodents?▾
Weaning juveniles onto rodents is a well-known challenge with this species. The scenting technique — rubbing the prey with a lizard or gecko to transfer the expected scent — is sometimes necessary to trigger a feeding response.
Is it calm and easy to handle?▾
This is an overall calm, slow-moving, and non-aggressive snake that handles well over time with gentle, regular handling. Juveniles, and especially wild-caught specimens, can nevertheless be nervous, ball up, or bite defensively.
Should the animal's origin be a concern?▾
Yes: although not CITES-listed, this species is very often imported as a wild-caught animal, with tricky acclimatisation. These imports are frequently anorexic and parasitised on arrival, so it is best to favour a captive-bred animal and check its provenance, especially since the taxonomy of the carinata/paulsoni complex is often confusing.
How does it reproduce?▾
It is ovoviviparous and gives birth to live young, with highly variable litters: often 5 to 15 neonates in captivity, exceptionally up to 30. Gestation is long, and breeding females require good body condition as well as a slight seasonal cooling.
What are the main health issues?▾
Internal parasites are very common in wild specimens, making a faecal exam and deworming worthwhile. Also watch for respiratory infections linked to unsuitable temperature or humidity, stomatitis, anorexia and dehydration from import stress, as well as difficult sheds from lack of humidity.

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