Husbandry requirements
Frilled Dragon — origin: Northern Australia (Kimberley, Top End, Cape York Peninsula) and southern New Guinea; wooded savannas and dry tropical forests. Not listed on CITES, but Australia bans the export of its wildlife: the animals available come from captive breeding (often from lineages originating in New Guinea). Favour a captive-bred (CB) individual, as wild-caught ones are fragile, stressed and often parasitised. A NON-venomous species..
Terrarium temperature gradient
A heliophilous species: a genuine bright hot spot is essential; measure the temperature at the surface of the basking branch. Provide a strong thermal gradient, both horizontal and vertical. A nighttime drop is beneficial, but avoid staying below ~18°C for long periods.
Large arboreal tropical terrarium with a vertical orientation
Minimum dimensions for an adult; bigger is always preferable, particularly in height. Height is the priority to allow elevated basking and vertical thermoregulation. Good ventilation is essential to avoid stagnant air.
A tropical but well-ventilated atmosphere. Daily misting, more sustained for juveniles and during shedding; let it dry out between two mistings to avoid stagnant humidity.
A substrate that slightly retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. Numerous vertical supports (sturdy trunks and branches) are essential: the animal feels secure at height and moves bipedally on the ground.
UVB essential and of high intensity (T5 HO tube 10-12% or equivalent, Ferguson zone 3-4), positioned to create a lit hot spot. Replace the tube according to the manufacturer's recommendations (roughly every 6 to 12 months).
A clean water bowl renewed regularly, combined with misting. Many individuals prefer to drink the droplets deposited on the décor and the frill rather than from a bowl.
Northern Australia (Kimberley, Top End, Cape York Peninsula) and southern New Guinea; wooded savannas and dry tropical forests. Not listed on CITES, but Australia bans the export of its wildlife: the animals available come from captive breeding (often from lineages originating in New Guinea). Favour a captive-bred (CB) individual, as wild-caught ones are fragile, stressed and often parasitised. A NON-venomous species.
Feeding & health
Insectivore / Carnivore — Crickets, roaches, locusts, worms (waxworms and superworms/zophobas in moderation); occasionally pinkies/fuzzies for adults.
A base of varied insects, well fed (gut-loaded) and dusted with calcium/vitamins. Vertebrate prey only occasionally for adults. Unlike the Bearded Dragon, this species eats few plants: a few may be offered (leaves, flowers) without making them the staple. Match prey size to the interocular distance.
Clutch 6–20 eggs/young. Laying after a rest/cooling period; 1 to 2 clutches per year. Incubation of about 55 to 75 days; the sex of the young may be influenced by the incubation temperature.
- Metabolic bone disease (MBD) from UVB and/or calcium deficiency
- Respiratory infections (cold, stagnant humidity, poor ventilation)
- Internal parasites, frequent in wild-caught specimens
- Chronic stress and anorexia (a wary species, often poorly acclimatised)
- Thermal burns (accessible heat source) and shedding retention
Morphs & genetics
Registry of 0 documented gene for Frilled Dragon.
Frequently asked questions
Answers to the most common questions about keeping the frilled dragon.
How big does an adult Frilled Dragon get?▾
What temperature and humidity does a Frilled Dragon need?▾
What does a Frilled Dragon eat?▾
Is the Frilled Dragon a good reptile for beginners?▾
Track your frilled dragon on ReptiNode
Create a free tracking log: weight, meals, sheds, health record, QR codes and breeding projects — with the built-in genetics calculator for over 200 species.
Create a free account