True red-tailed boa — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

True red-tailed boa — origin: Amazon basin of South America (northern Brazil, the Guianas, Suriname, Peru, Colombia). A species listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B): keeping, transfer and trade are regulated, and supporting documents are mandatory..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C

Cool side26–28 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

Basking spot32–34 °C

A thermal gradient is essential: warm zone/basking spot 32-34 °C (surface), cool side 26-28 °C. Night-time drop tolerated down to ~22 °C, ideally not below 24 °C. Control every heating element with a thermostat; rule out heat rocks (burns).

Enclosure (adult)

180 × 90 × 90 cm

A spacious, sturdy front-opening terrarium (PVC or wood); provide solid branches for semi-arboreal juveniles.

Minimum dimensions for an adult; bigger is always preferable. Two hides (one at each end of the thermal gradient), sturdy branches and a secure closure: an adult boa is very powerful and seeks to escape.

Humidity

60–80 %

60-70% ambient, to be raised towards 70-80% during sheds. Of Amazonian origin, this subspecies is more demanding in humidity than B. c. imperator. Maintain good ventilation to prevent respiratory infections.

Substrate

Coco fibre (coco husk)Cypress mulch / orchid barkAdditive-free potting soil/humus

Favour moisture-retaining substrates, kept clean and moist without being waterlogged. Avoid cedar and pine shavings (toxic oils) as well as abrasive mats.

UVB

Optional

Not essential (a nocturnal species), but low UVB (Ferguson zone 1, ~5%) is beneficial; provide shaded areas and hides in that case.

Water source

Always available

A large, stable bowl of clean water, wide enough to allow immersion, especially before shedding. Renew frequently and disinfect regularly.

Origin

Boidae

Amazon basin of South America (northern Brazil, the Guianas, Suriname, Peru, Colombia). A species listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B): keeping, transfer and trade are regulated, and supporting documents are mandatory.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore (mammals) — Appropriately sized rodents (mice for juveniles, then rats and, for large females, young rabbits).

Thawed prey of a diameter close to the widest part of the snake. Juveniles fed every 7-10 days, adults every 2-4 weeks. Overweight is common in captivity: space out adults' meals.

Breeding

Viviparous

Litters of 10 to 30 neonates, generally fewer but larger than in B. c. imperator. Breeding triggered by a seasonal cycle (a slight drop in temperature and photoperiod). Reminder: a CITES Appendix II species — breeding, transfer and trade are regulated.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (unsuitable temperature or humidity, poor ventilation)
Incomplete shed / dysecdysis (humidity too low)
Ophionyssus natricis mite infestation (snake mites)
Inclusion body disease (IBD), serious and specific to boids
Obesity and stomatitis (mouth rot)

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes for True red-tailed boa.

Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
Black-Eyed Leucistic (Princess Diamond) belRec
Paradox (Random)Dom

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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True red-tailed boa × True red-tailed boa

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the true red-tailed boa.

How big does an adult true red-tailed boa get?▾

It is a large, heavy and powerful snake measuring 200 to 300 cm in total length as an adult. Females are noticeably larger and heavier than males and can exceed 300 cm, something to plan for from the outset when sizing the terrarium correctly.

What dimensions and type of terrarium should be provided?▾

A spacious, sturdy front-opening terrarium made of PVC or wood, at least 180 x 90 x 90 cm for an adult, keeping in mind that bigger is always better. Provide solid branches (juveniles are semi-arboreal), two hides placed at each end of the thermal gradient, and a secure closure, since an adult boa is very powerful and will try to escape.

What temperatures should be maintained in the terrarium?▾

A thermal gradient is essential: a warm zone or basking spot of 32-34 °C at the surface, a cool side of 26-28 °C, and a night-time drop tolerated down to around 22 °C (ideally not below 24 °C). Every heating element must be controlled by a thermostat, and heat rocks should be avoided due to the risk of burns.

What humidity level does this subspecies need?▾

Aim for 60 to 70% ambient humidity, raised to around 70-80% during sheds. Of Amazonian origin, this subspecies is more demanding in terms of humidity than Boa constrictor imperator, while also requiring good ventilation to prevent respiratory infections.

What does a red-tailed boa eat, and how often?▾

It is a mammal-eating carnivore fed on appropriately sized thawed rodents: mice for juveniles, then rats and, for large females, young rabbits. The prey should have a diameter close to the widest part of the snake; juveniles eat every 7 to 10 days and adults every 2 to 4 weeks, with meals spaced out to avoid the excess weight that is common in captivity.

Is it docile, and is it suitable for a beginner?▾

It sits at an intermediate level. Generally more defensive and reactive than Boa constrictor imperator, especially as juveniles, it tames with regular, calm and predictable handling, but should still be reserved for keepers capable of managing a large, powerful constrictor.

How long does this species live?▾

Its longevity is remarkable, 20 to 30 years in captivity and sometimes more with optimal care. Adopting one is therefore a commitment of several decades to weigh up before getting started.

Are specific documents required to keep it?▾

Yes: native to the Amazon basin, the true red-tailed boa is listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B). Keeping, transferring and trading it are regulated and require supporting documents, which also applies to any breeding.

What substrates should be used, and how should water be managed?▾

Favour moisture-retaining substrates such as coco fibre, cypress mulch, orchid bark or additive-free potting soil, kept clean and moist without being waterlogged; avoid cedar and pine shavings (toxic oils) and abrasive mats. Add a large, stable bowl of clean water, wide enough for immersion especially before shedding, and renew it frequently.

Is UVB lighting necessary?▾

UVB is not essential for this nocturnal species, but low UVB (Ferguson zone 1, around 5%) is still beneficial. In that case, provide shaded areas and hides so the animal can move away from it.

How does it reproduce?▾

It is ovoviviparous and gives birth to 10 to 30 live young, generally fewer but larger than in Boa constrictor imperator. Breeding is triggered by a seasonal cycle (a slight drop in temperature and photoperiod) and, like transfer, remains governed by CITES Appendix II.

What health problems should be monitored?▾

The most common are respiratory infections (unsuitable temperature or humidity, poor ventilation), incomplete sheds from humidity that is too low, mite infestation from Ophionyssus natricis, obesity and stomatitis. It's also important to be aware of inclusion body disease (IBD), a serious condition specific to boids.

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