African House Snake — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

African House Snake — origin: Sub-Saharan Africa, mainly West and Central Africa. The Boaedon fuliginosus / capensis complex is undergoing taxonomic revision: precise identification to species remains difficult, but the husbandry requirements are identical and well documented..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

A nocturnal species: no true bright basking spot is necessary. Create a gradient via a heat mat or cable that is MANDATORILY connected to a thermostat (or a ceramic lamp). Warm zone 30-32 C, cool zone 24-26 C; night-time drop accepted down to 20 C (occasionally 18 C without danger). Never leave a heating element unregulated.

Enclosure (adult)

90 × 45 × 45 cm

A closed, perfectly secured terrestrial terrarium (an excellent escape artist: seals and openings must be perfectly fitted).

Indicative minimum for a male or a young female. For a large adult female, plan rather for 120 x 60 x 45 cm. Provide at least two hides (warm side and cool side), a humid hide for shedding, a few branches and a horizontal thermal gradient.

Humidity

40–60 %

Moderate humidity. An occasional peak (humid hide or light misting) aids shedding. Avoid a constantly high humidity that promotes respiratory and skin infections.

Substrate

Aspen shavingsCoconut fibreCypress bark / mulchAbsorbent paper (quarantine/juveniles)

Dry to slightly humid substrate, absorbent and allowing burrowing. Avoid resinous shavings (pine, cedar), which are toxic to reptiles. Paper makes observation easier in quarantine and with juveniles.

UVB

Optional

Not essential (nocturnal species). Weak UVB (index 5-6 %) remains beneficial and helps structure the day/night cycle; always provide hides to avoid forced exposure. Otherwise a simple 12h/12h lighting cycle is enough.

Water source

Always available

A bowl of clean water available at all times, large enough to allow the snake to soak, especially before shedding. Refresh frequently and clean to prevent bacterial proliferation.

Origin

Lamprophiidae

Sub-Saharan Africa, mainly West and Central Africa. The Boaedon fuliginosus / capensis complex is undergoing taxonomic revision: precise identification to species remains difficult, but the husbandry requirements are identical and well documented.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore (rodent-eater) — Rodents (mice, then rats of suitable size)

In captivity it readily feeds on thawed rodents of appropriate size (prey width roughly equal to the widest part of the snake). In the wild it also eats lizards and small vertebrates, especially as juveniles. A voracious eater very prone to obesity: do NOT overfeed. Indicative schedule: juveniles every 5-7 days, adults one prey item every 10-14 days.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 6–15 eggs/young. A prolific species: several clutches are possible per year. Incubation of about 55-70 days at ~28 C. A cool/winter rest period (cooling) stimulates breeding. Provide a humid nest box for the gravid female.

Health watch points

Obesity due to overfeeding (a very voracious species) and associated problems
Dysecdysis (incomplete sheds) linked to insufficient humidity or hydration
Snake mites (Ophionyssus natricis), common in imported wild specimens
Respiratory infections in cases of excessive humidity or temperatures that are too low
Regurgitations due to handling too soon after a meal or to inadequate temperatures

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes and 1 named combos for African House Snake.

Hypomelanistic (West African Line)Rec
Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
Anerythristic (Axanthic) aneryRec

Named combos — 1 documented combined morphs

Ghost

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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African House Snake × African House Snake

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the african house snake.

Is the African house snake suitable for a beginner?▾

Yes, it's a non-venomous, constricting species rated as beginner-friendly. Generally docile, it tends to be a bit livelier and more nervous than the Cape house snake, especially when young, but it tames well with regular, calm handling.

How does it differ from the Cape house snake?▾

The Boaedon fuliginosus / capensis complex is undergoing taxonomic revision, and precise identification to species level remains tricky. Good news for keepers: their care requirements are identical and well documented, so the distinction has no practical impact on husbandry.

Do males and females reach the same size?▾

No, sexual dimorphism is extreme: males stay noticeably smaller (60-80 cm) while females are much larger and more robust (100-140 cm). The species' total adult length therefore ranges from 60 to 140 cm depending on sex.

What size terrarium is needed, and is it prone to escaping?▾

Plan for an indicative minimum of 90 x 45 x 45 cm for a male or young female, and more like 120 x 60 x 45 cm for a large adult female. It's an excellent escape artist, so seals and openings must fit perfectly. Provide two hides (warm side and cool side), a humid hide for shedding, a few branches and a horizontal thermal gradient.

What temperatures should be maintained?▾

As a nocturnal species, it needs no true bright basking spot: create a gradient with a heat mat or cable that is always connected to a thermostat (or a ceramic heat lamp). The warm zone should sit at 30-32 °C, the cool zone at 24-26 °C, and a night-time drop down to 20 °C is fine, occasionally 18 °C without issue.

What humidity level does it need?▾

Moderate humidity of 40 to 60% is suitable. An occasional spike, via a humid hide or light misting, helps with shedding, but constantly high humidity should be avoided, as it promotes respiratory and skin infections.

What substrate should be used?▾

A dry to slightly humid substrate that is absorbent and allows burrowing: aspen shavings, coconut fibre, or cypress bark and mulch, with absorbent paper suitable for quarantine and juveniles. Resinous pine or cedar shavings must be strictly avoided, as they are toxic to reptiles.

What does it eat, and what feeding precautions are needed?▾

It's a rodent-eater that readily takes appropriately sized thawed rodents (mice, then rats), with a width close to the widest part of the snake. A very voracious eater with a strong feeding response, care must be taken to avoid hand/prey confusion when opening the terrarium; feed juveniles every 5 to 7 days and adults every 10 to 14 days, never overfeeding.

How does it reproduce?▾

It's a prolific egg-layer that can produce several clutches a year, each of 6 to 15 eggs. Incubation takes about 55 to 70 days at 28 °C, and a cool or winter rest period (cooling) stimulates breeding; provide a humid nest box for the gravid female.

How long does it live, and does it need UVB?▾

Its lifespan is 15 to 20 years in captivity with good care, with individuals exceeding 20 years reported. UVB is not essential for this nocturnal species, but weak UVB (index 5-6%) remains beneficial; otherwise a simple 12h/12h lighting cycle is enough, always paired with hides.

What health issues should be watched for?▾

The most common are obesity from overfeeding in this very voracious species, incomplete sheds (dysecdysis) from insufficient humidity or hydration, snake mites (Ophionyssus natricis) especially in imported wild-caught specimens, respiratory infections from excessive humidity or too-low temperatures, and regurgitation after handling too soon after a meal.

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