Species profile · Colubridae

Lampropeltis alterna

Complete care sheet and morph genetics registry for the gray-banded kingsnake — husbandry parameters, diet, breeding and pairing calculator.

GBKAlternaSerpent roi à bandes grisesGraugebänderte KönigsnatterBergkönigsnatter
Adult size
0.8–1.2 m
Lifespan
15–20 yrs
Difficulty
Intermediate
Temperament
Docile
Activity
Nocturnal
Reproduction
Oviparous
01

Husbandry requirements

Gray-banded Kingsnake — origin: Chihuahuan Desert: the Trans-Pecos region (west Texas, southern New Mexico) and northern Mexico (Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León). Occupies high-altitude limestone canyons, scree slopes and outcrops..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min18 °C
Cool side22–25 °C
Warm side28–30 °C

A nocturnal species of limestone canyons: NO intense bright hot spot required, but a clear thermal gradient (heat mat/cable under a thermostat over a third of the tank). The natural night-time drop (down to ~18 °C) is beneficial. A winter brumation (approx. 10-13 °C, 6 to 10 weeks) is necessary to trigger breeding — to be carried out only on a healthy, well-fed animal.

Enclosure (adult)
90 × 45 × 45 cm

Secure terrestrial terrarium, oriented towards floor space

An excellent escape artist and climber: a locked lid and perfectly sealed joints are essential. Favour floor space over height. Provide several narrow hides (rock crevices, bark) on both the warm AND the cool gradient; an individual without a safe hide stays stressed.

Humidity
30–50 %

An arid environment: an overall dry atmosphere. Nevertheless provide a humid box (sphagnum/vermiculite) during shedding to prevent dysecdysis. Prolonged stagnant humidity promotes respiratory and skin infections.

Substrate
Aspen shavingsPotting soil/desert sand mixCypress mulch (kept barely damp)

Avoid any waterlogged substrate. Stacks of rocks or bark recreating the limestone crevices must be STABLE and wedged against the bottom of the tank (resting on the glass, not on the substrate) to eliminate any risk of collapse and crushing of this burrowing animal.

UVB
Optional

Not essential (a nocturnal species). Low UVB lighting (index 5-6 %, filtered T5 type) remains beneficial to welfare and metabolism if it is paired with shaded hides allowing the animal to escape it.

Water source
Always available

A bowl of clean, fresh water at all times, heavy enough not to be tipped over. The animal drinks regularly and may bathe in it before shedding; renew the water often to prevent bacterial growth.

Origin
Colubridae

Chihuahuan Desert: the Trans-Pecos region (west Texas, southern New Mexico) and northern Mexico (Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León). Occupies high-altitude limestone canyons, scree slopes and outcrops.

02

Feeding & health

Diet

Strict carnivore (rodents in captivity) — Mice of a suitable size (diameter close to the widest part of the snake); adults every 7 to 14 days, juveniles every 5 to 7 days.

In the wild, a lizard specialist (Sceloporus). Neonates are NOTORIOUSLY DIFFICULT to start on rodents and often require 'scenting' (rubbing a lizard/anole on the prey) or even 'braining'. Established adults generally accept mice well. Strongly favour a captive-bred (CB) animal that already eats mice well: wild-caught specimens, still lizard-eating and often parasitised, are tricky. A species not listed under CITES, but whose collection in the wild is regulated in Texas and Mexico.

Breeding
Oviparous

Clutch 3–13 eggs/young. A clutch of generally 3 to 9 eggs (up to 13). Breeding triggered by a winter brumation (~10-13 °C, 6-10 weeks). Incubation of about 55 to 70 days at 27-28 °C. Provide a humid laying box. Neonates measure ~20-25 cm and pose the feeding challenge mentioned above.

Health watch points
  • Chronic feeding refusal in neonates (difficult to start on rodents)
  • Dysecdysis (incomplete sheds) from a lack of a humid shedding area
  • Regurgitation (prey too large, insufficient temperature or post-feeding handling)
  • Gastrointestinal parasitoses and cryptosporidiosis, especially in wild-caught specimens
  • Mites (Ophionyssus) and respiratory infections if the environment is too cold or damp
03

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 4 documented genes and 1 named combos for Gray-banded Kingsnake.

  • Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
  • Hypomelanistic (Ghost) ghostRec
  • Anerythristic aneryRec
  • LeucisticRec
Named combos — 1 documented combined morphs
Snow
04

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

🧬

Gray-banded Kingsnake × Gray-banded Kingsnake

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

GeneParent AParent B
Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.
05

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the gray-banded kingsnake.

Is the Gray-banded Kingsnake suitable for a first-time keeper?▾
Not really as a first snake: its intermediate rating comes mainly from the juveniles, which are notoriously difficult to start feeding on rodents. A keeper who has already kept an easier colubrid will handle this initial feeding challenge much better.
How big does an adult Gray-banded Kingsnake get?▾
Most adults measure between 90 and 110 cm, with an overall range of 80 to 120 cm. A few exceptional individuals approach 130 cm, but the build always stays slender and elongated.
What terrarium should be provided?▾
A minimum of 90 x 45 x 45 cm works well, favouring floor space over height. It's an excellent escape artist and climber: the lid must be locked and perfectly sealed, without the slightest gap.
Does it need an intense hot spot like other snakes?▾
No: being strictly nocturnal, it doesn't need a bright, intense lamp. A moderate thermal gradient is enough, with 28-30 °C on the warm side and 22-25 °C on the cool side via a heat mat or cable under a thermostat; a night-time drop down to 18 °C is actually beneficial.
What humidity and substrate suit it best?▾
The overall environment should stay dry, between 30 and 50 %, on an aspen substrate or a desert soil-sand mix. A humid hide is still needed during shedding, though, to prevent incomplete sheds.
Why are juveniles of this species notoriously difficult to feed?▾
In the wild, this species mainly hunts lizards of the genus Sceloporus, so neonates often refuse rodents in captivity. Keepers then have to resort to 'scenting', or even 'braining', to get them started, which is why it's worth choosing a captive-bred animal already converted onto mice.
How often should an adult be fed once established on rodents?▾
One appropriately sized mouse every 7 to 14 days is enough for an adult, compared with every 5 to 7 days for a juvenile.
What is this snake's life expectancy?▾
15 to 20 years, often more in captivity with good care: a very long-term commitment to plan for before adopting one.
Does this snake pose any danger when handled?▾
None at all: it's a non-venomous constrictor, generally calm and docile, that rarely bites. It may simply be livelier and quicker at night, when it's naturally active.
Where does this snake come from and how does it behave in the wild?▾
It lives in the Chihuahuan Desert, between west Texas and northern Mexico, where it occupies canyons, scree slopes and limestone outcrops. Its activity there is strictly nocturnal, with a burst of activity right at the start of the night.
Is brumation necessary to breed it?▾
Yes, a winter brumation of 6 to 10 weeks at around 10-13 °C triggers breeding, but only for a healthy, well-fed animal. Females then lay 3 to 13 eggs, incubated for 55 to 70 days at 27-28 °C.
What health problems should be monitored?▾
Chronic feeding refusal in juveniles, dysecdysis caused by a lack of a humid area, and regurgitation after too large a prey item are among the most common concerns. Wild-caught specimens are also more exposed to gastrointestinal parasites.

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