Species profile · Teiidae

Salvator rufescens

Complete care sheet and morph genetics registry for the argentine red tegu — husbandry parameters, diet, breeding and pairing calculator.

Red TeguRoter TejuTéju rouge
Adult size
1–1.3 m
Lifespan
15–20 yrs
Difficulty
Intermediate
Temperament
Docile
Activity
Diurnal
Reproduction
Oviparous
01

Husbandry requirements

Argentine red tegu — origin: Central South America: Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia, mainly in the semi-arid, wooded region of the Gran Chaco (formerly classified as Tupinambis rufescens)..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C
Cool side24–28 °C
Warm side32–35 °C
Basking spot43–50 °C

A heliophilic species requiring a genuine localised hot spot (basking lamp) at 43-50 °C under which the animal can warm its whole body. A thermal gradient along the length of the terrarium is essential. A nighttime drop is beneficial (down to ~18-20 °C). Provide a winter brumation/hibernation of several weeks at ~10-15 °C for the natural cycle and reproduction.

Enclosure (adult)
240 × 120 × 90 cm

Spacious terrestrial terrarium geared toward a burrower (deep substrate)

Minimum dimensions for ONE adult; bigger is always better, and a custom cabinet-style enclosure is strongly recommended for an animal of this size. A very sturdy terrarium (a powerful, burrowing adult), with a robust hide and a humidification tub. Heating and UVB must be out of reach or protected to prevent burns.

Humidity
60–80 %

Moderate to high ambient humidity. Too low a level causes shedding problems (dysecdysis), common in this species: keep a deep substrate that is slightly moist in its lower layer, a humidification tub and a large water point. Conversely, avoid a constantly waterlogged atmosphere that promotes skin infections.

Substrate
Organic topsoil, fertiliser-free / peat-freeCoco fibreTopsoil-sand mix (for burrowing)Cypress mulch

Deep, loose substrate (at least 20-30 cm, ideally more) allowing the animal to dig burrows, an essential natural behaviour. Keeping the lower layer slightly moist helps regulate humidity and prevents shedding problems.

UVB
Recommended

Essential. Provide high-output UVB (T5 HO tube, ~10-12%) covering the basking area, with a UV index (UVI) of about 4-6 at the hot spot. Replace the tube every 6-12 months depending on the model. Without adequate UVB combined with calcium, high risk of metabolic bone disease (MBD).

Water source
Always available

A large container of clean water, wide and stable enough to let the animal immerse and bathe; immersion promotes hydration and good shedding. Clean and renew the water regularly (the animal often defecates in it).

Origin
Teiidae

Central South America: Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia, mainly in the semi-arid, wooded region of the Gran Chaco (formerly classified as Tupinambis rufescens).

02

Feeding & health

Diet

Omnivore — Fruits (a very important part), lean meats and whole prey (rodents, chicks, fish), insects, eggs, snails; calcium/vitamin D3 supplements.

A balanced omnivorous diet in which fruits (figs, berries, melon, mango, banana in moderation) play a larger role than in most tegus. Alternate lean animal protein and plant matter; supplement with calcium (with D3 depending on UVB). A species very prone to OBESITY: strictly ration adults (2-3 meals/week), avoid excess fatty meat and rodents.

Breeding
Oviparous

Clutch 10–30 eggs/young. Reproduction is triggered by a seasonal cycle including a winter hibernation/brumation period followed by warming. The female often builds a nest and may guard her clutch. Artificial incubation of about 50-65 days at ~28-30 °C. Notable fact: the neonates are green/brown and the characteristic reddish colouration intensifies with age.

Health watch points
  • Shedding problems (dysecdysis) linked to too low humidity, which can cause retained shed on the toes and tail tip
  • Obesity from overfeeding, very common in captive adults and a cause of hepatic steatosis
  • Metabolic bone disease (MBD) from a deficiency in UVB, calcium or D3
  • Respiratory infections (an environment too cold, too humid or poorly ventilated)
  • Internal and external parasites, especially in wild-caught individuals
03

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 1 documented gene for Argentine red tegu.

  • Anerythristic (Hybrid Line?)Rec
04

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

🧬

Argentine red tegu × Argentine red tegu

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

GeneParent AParent B
Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.
05

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the argentine red tegu.

What size can a red tegu reach as an adult?▾
The Argentine red tegu is an imposing lizard: 100 to 130 cm in total length as an adult, often weighing 3 to 7 kg. Males are considerably more massive than females and develop huge jowls, even more pronounced than in the black and white tegu.
What terrarium should be planned for an adult?▾
It needs a spacious and very sturdy terrestrial terrarium, at least 240 x 120 x 90 cm for a single adult — a custom-built enclosure is strongly recommended given the animal's size. The substrate must be deep since this is a burrowing species, and both the heating and the UVB must be out of reach or protected to prevent any burns.
What temperatures and basking spot should be set up?▾
The red tegu is highly heliophilic and needs a genuine basking spot of 43 to 50 °C, with a warm zone at 32-35 °C and a cool side at 24-28 °C. At night, the temperature can drop to 20 °C, and a several-week winter brumation around 10-15 °C is actually sought after to respect the species' natural cycle.
Is UVB essential?▾
Yes, absolutely: a high-output UVB tube (T5 HO, about 10-12%) must cover the basking area, aiming for a UVI of 4 to 6 under the hot spot. It must be replaced every 6 to 12 months, otherwise the risk of metabolic bone disease increases sharply, even with a good calcium intake.
Why does this species often have shedding problems?▾
The red tegu is prone to dysecdysis when ambient humidity is too low. Aim for 60 to 80% humidity, with a deep substrate (at least 20 to 30 cm) kept slightly moist deep down, without however soaking the atmosphere to the point of encouraging skin infections.
What does a red tegu eat and how often should it be fed?▾
It is an omnivore in which fruit (figs, berries, melon, mango, etc.) plays an unusually important role, complemented by lean meats, whole prey, insects and eggs, all supplemented with calcium and vitamin D3. This species is very prone to obesity: for an adult, feeding must be strictly rationed to 2-3 meals per week.
Does it need a large water source?▾
Yes, a wide, stable container in which it can fully immerse itself is important: bathing promotes hydration and facilitates shedding. Since the animal often defecates in it, the water must be changed regularly.
What is the red tegu's life expectancy?▾
Generally count on 15 to 20 years in captivity, with some individuals exceeding this when diet, UVB and annual brumation are well managed. It is a very long-term commitment.
Is the red tegu a good animal for beginners?▾
It is reputed to be the calmest and most docile of all tegus, far more even-tempered than the black and white tegu with its famous feeding frenzy. That said, its size, bite force and the territorial temperament that adult males can develop make it an intermediate-level species rather than a first reptile.
Where does the red tegu come from in the wild?▾
It is native to central South America, mainly the semi-arid, wooded Gran Chaco region of Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia. It is a diurnal, terrestrial and burrowing lizard that readily digs burrows.
How does the red tegu reproduce?▾
It is an oviparous species: the female lays 10 to 30 eggs after a seasonal cycle involving winter hibernation followed by a gradual warming. Incubation lasts about 50 to 65 days at 28-30 °C. An amusing detail: hatchlings are green or brown, and it is only as they grow that the species' characteristic reddish colour sets in.
What are the main health problems to watch for?▾
The most common are shedding disorders linked to a lack of humidity, obesity from overfeeding (which can lead to hepatic lipidosis), metabolic bone disease in case of UVB or calcium deficiency, as well as respiratory infections and parasites, especially in wild-caught individuals.

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