Cape / Brown House Snake — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Cape / Brown House Snake — origin: Southern Africa (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and neighbouring regions); inhabits savannahs, scrubland and the surroundings of human dwellings..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

A horizontal thermal gradient is essential. A nocturnal species that does not bask: heat preferably from below (heat mat/cable on a thermostat) rather than a light spot. Hot spot reaching 30-32 C, cool side 24-26 C, night-time drop to ~20 C tolerated. Always control heating with a thermostat.

Enclosure (adult)

90 × 45 × 45 cm

Closed terrestrial terrarium, glass or PVC, with a secure opening (a vigorous species that forces lids).

Minimum for an adult female; provide larger (120 x 60 cm) for large females. A male makes do with a more modest volume. Provide at least two hides (warm side and cool side) and a few branches, as the species climbs readily.

Humidity

40–60 %

Moderate humidity. Offer a humid box (moss/sphagnum) during shedding periods to prevent incomplete sheds. Avoid a permanently soaked substrate, a source of dermatitis.

Substrate

Aspen shavingsCoconut fibreCypress barkPaper towel (quarantine/hospital)

Dry to slightly humid substrate, absorbent and easy to change. Avoid constantly wet substrates that promote scale rot; remove soiled areas promptly.

UVB

Optional

Not essential since it is a nocturnal species; low UVB lighting (index 1-2) and a day/night cycle remain beneficial for well-being and bone structure. Provide a photoperiod of about 12 h.

Water source

Always available

Clean, fresh water available at all times, large enough to allow the snake to soak, especially before shedding. Clean and refresh regularly.

Origin

Lamprophiidae

Southern Africa (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and neighbouring regions); inhabits savannahs, scrubland and the surroundings of human dwellings.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore (vertebrate generalist) — Rodents of suitable size (mice, then rats) with a diameter close to the widest part of the snake; thawed prey.

Voracious appetite and strong constriction instinct. Feed juveniles every 5-7 days, adults every 10-14 days. In the wild it also eats lizards, birds and bats, but a rodent diet is sufficient in captivity. High risk of obesity from overfeeding: ration adults.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 8–18 eggs/young. A prolific species: females can produce several clutches per season (double or even triple clutches). Incubation of about 55-75 days at ~28 C on a humid substrate. A brief cooling/winter rest period stimulates breeding.

Health watch points

Obesity linked to overfeeding (voracious appetite)
Incomplete shed (dysecdysis) due to insufficient humidity or lack of a humid area
Respiratory infections (environment too cold and/or too humid)
Mites (Ophionyssus natricis)
Regurgitation (prey too large or handling too soon after a meal)

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 7 documented genes and 4 named combos for Cape / Brown House Snake.

Scaleless (Recessive) silkyRec
Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
Albino (T+) / Butter butterRec
Anerythristic aneryRec
Hypo (Illico / Ghost) hypomelanisticInc.d
Pied (Piebald) piebaldRec
Patternless (Recessive)Rec

Named combos — 4 documented combined morphs

SnowGhostSunglowScaleless Albino

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Cape / Brown House Snake × Cape / Brown House Snake

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the cape / brown house snake.

Is the Cape House Snake a good choice for beginners?▾

Yes, it's an ideal beginner species: non-venomous, harmless to humans, hardy and tolerant. It's a powerful yet harmless constrictor, generally docile; captive-bred specimens are preferred over wild-caught ones, especially since it isn't listed under CITES.

Why aren't males and females the same size?▾

Sexual dimorphism is pronounced: males stay slender at around 60-70 cm, while females are massive, reaching 100-120 cm and sometimes more. This difference directly determines the enclosure size needed depending on the sex.

What enclosure dimensions are needed?▾

Plan for at least 90 x 45 x 45 cm for an adult female, and more like 120 x 60 cm for large females; a male makes do with a more modest volume. Provide at least two hides (warm side and cool side), a few branches since the species climbs readily, and a secure opening, as this vigorous snake pushes lids open.

What temperatures should be maintained?▾

A horizontal thermal gradient is essential: a basking spot of 30 to 32 °C, a cool side of 24 to 26 °C, and a tolerated night-time drop to around 20 °C. Since it's a nocturnal snake that doesn't bask under light, heat is best provided from below (a heat mat or cable on a thermostat) rather than from an overhead lamp.

What humidity level suits it?▾

Moderate humidity of 40 to 60% is enough. Simply offer a humid box (moss or sphagnum) during shedding periods to prevent incomplete sheds, and avoid a permanently soaked substrate, which causes dermatitis.

What substrate should be chosen?▾

A dry to slightly humid substrate that's absorbent and easy to change: aspen shavings, coconut fibre or cypress bark, with paper towel reserved for quarantine. Avoid constantly wet substrates, which promote scale rot, and remove soiled areas promptly.

What does it eat, and how often?▾

It's a generalist carnivore with a voracious appetite and a strong constriction instinct, fed on thawed rodents of an appropriate size (mice, then rats). Feed juveniles every 5 to 7 days and adults every 10 to 14 days, rationing the latter since the risk of obesity from overfeeding is high.

Does it breed easily?▾

Yes, it's a prolific species: females can produce several clutches per season, sometimes double or even triple clutches. This oviparous species lays 8 to 18 eggs per clutch, incubated for around 55 to 75 days at 28 °C on a humid substrate, with a brief winter cooling period stimulating breeding.

How long does it live?▾

Its captive lifespan is frequently 15 to 20 years, and well-kept individuals can exceed 20 years. It's a lasting companion for beginners.

Does it need UVB?▾

UVB isn't essential since the species is nocturnal, but low-level UVB lighting (index 1-2) and a day/night cycle of around 12 hours remain beneficial for well-being and bone health. A simple lighting cycle is otherwise sufficient.

What health problems should be watched for?▾

The most common are obesity linked to its voracious appetite, incomplete sheds from insufficient humidity or the absence of a humid area, respiratory infections in environments that are too cold or too damp, mites (Ophionyssus natricis), and regurgitation caused by prey that's too large or handling too soon after a meal.

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