ReptiNode Species › Common Egg-eating Snake
English
Sign up
Species profile · Colubridae

Dasypeltis scabra

Complete care sheet and morph genetics registry for the common egg-eating snake — husbandry parameters, diet, breeding and pairing calculator.

Common Egg EaterRhombic Egg EaterSerpent mangeur d'œufsAfrikanische EierschlangeGewone Eiervreter (Afrikaans)
Adult size
50–90 cm
Lifespan
10–15 yrs
Difficulty
Intermediate
Temperament
Docile
Activity
Nocturnal
Reproduction
Oviparous
01

Husbandry requirements

Common Egg-eating Snake — origin: Sub-Saharan Africa (savannahs, scrubland and semi-arid zones); one of the most widely distributed snake species on the continent..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min18 °C
Cool side22–24 °C
Warm side28–30 °C
Basking spot30–32 °C

A gentle thermal gradient. A moderate hot spot (30-32 °C) is sufficient: a nocturnal savannah species that thermoregulates without strong sun exposure — no need to overheat. A night-time drop is beneficial (18-20 °C). Control with a thermostat and avoid any accessible heating element that could cause burns.

Enclosure (adult)
60 × 45 × 45 cm

A well-ventilated semi-arboreal terrarium, with height and branches for climbing, and several high and low hides

Minimum dimensions for an adult; increase for a large female. A small, agile snake and a good climber: favour vertical volume, branches, cork and foliage (natural or artificial). A perfectly secured lid, as the species is slender and escapes easily.

Humidity
40–60 %

Average savannah-type humidity. Provide a humid hide (sphagnum) to aid shedding; avoid a constantly waterlogged substrate that promotes fungal infections and respiratory infections.

Substrate
Coconut fibreAspen shavingsOrchid barkNewspaper / paper towel (quarantine)

A dry to slightly moist substrate that holds burrows. Add branches, cork bark and elevated hides: the species readily climbs to search for bird nests in the wild.

UVB
Optional

Not essential as a nocturnal species, but low UVB (UVI 1-2, a tube of about 5-6%) on a regular day/night cycle is beneficial and improves well-being. Provide shaded areas.

Water source
Always available

A bowl of clean water available at all times, refreshed regularly; the snake drinks and may immerse itself to aid shedding.

Origin
Colubridae

Sub-Saharan Africa (savannahs, scrubland and semi-arid zones); one of the most widely distributed snake species on the continent.

02

Feeding & health

Diet

Strict egg-eater (fresh bird eggs only) — does NOT eat rodents — Fresh, unincubated, shelled bird eggs, sized to the snake's build: finch/canary/zebra finch eggs for juveniles, quail then chicken eggs for adults

The species' major constraint: the egg must not exceed the body diameter at its widest point. Fresh eggs served at room temperature (never spoiled). Feed every 7-14 days (more often for growing young). The animal seizes the egg, saws it open with its vertebral processes ('gular spines'), swallows the liquid then regurgitates the crushed shell: this is normal. Note: finding eggs small enough for neonates is the real husbandry challenge, and the species may fast for several months outside the birds' breeding season — monitor the weight without forcing feeding.

Breeding
Oviparous

Clutch 6–15 eggs/young. Females markedly larger than males. Breeding triggered by a seasonal cycle (a cool rest followed by a rise in temperature and food availability). Incubation of the eggs around 27-29 °C for ~2.5-3.5 months. Breeding remains little practised in captivity, as the majority of animals in the trade are wild imports.

Health watch points
  • Regurgitation or digestive obstruction if the eggs are too large, too cold or spoiled
  • Weight loss and deficiencies linked to the difficulty of finding eggs of a suitable size (especially for juveniles) and to seasonal fasting
  • Internal parasites and dehydration, very common in the many wild-caught specimens (imports)
  • Dysecdysis (incomplete shedding) from insufficient humidity or grip points
  • Respiratory infections if kept too cold and/or too humid
03

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes for Common Egg-eating Snake.

  • Anerythristic (Hypothetical) axanthicRec
  • HypomelanisticDom
  • Patternless (Line-bred)Dom
04

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

🧬

Common Egg-eating Snake × Common Egg-eating Snake

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

GeneParent AParent B
Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.
05

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the common egg-eating snake.

Is the egg-eating snake dangerous or venomous?▾
No, it's completely harmless: lacking functional teeth, it cannot bite effectively and is not venomous. It does, however, put on an impressive bluff display — rubbing its scales together like a saw and striking with mock open-mouthed bites — to mimic the saw-scaled viper, but this show poses no real danger.
How big does it get as an adult?▾
It's a modestly sized snake, between 50 and 90 cm in total length, with females being noticeably larger and heavier-bodied than males.
What exactly does it eat?▾
Only fresh, unincubated bird eggs — it never eats rodents. Juveniles need finch or canary eggs, while adults move on to quail eggs and then chicken eggs, always sized to match the snake's build.
How often should it be fed?▾
One egg every 7 to 14 days is enough, a little more often for growing young. The snake grips the egg, saws it open using its vertebral processes, swallows the contents, then regurgitates the crushed shell — this behaviour is perfectly normal.
Why is keeping this species considered tricky?▾
The real challenge is finding eggs small enough for hatchlings, since the egg must never exceed the diameter of the snake's body. Also, outside the birds' breeding season, the animal may fast for several months without this being abnormal; it's better to monitor its weight than to force feeding.
What terrarium and setup does it need?▾
A well-ventilated semi-arboreal terrarium of at least 60 x 45 x 45 cm for an adult, with height, branches and several high and low hides: in the wild, this species readily climbs to raid bird nests. The lid must be perfectly secure, as this slender, agile snake escapes easily.
What temperatures and humidity should be targeted?▾
A gentle gradient is enough, with a moderate hot spot of 30 to 32 °C, a warm zone of 28 to 30 °C and a cool side of 22 to 24 °C; there's no need to overheat, as this nocturnal savannah species doesn't bask much in the sun. For humidity, aim for 40 to 60%, with a humid sphagnum hide to aid shedding.
Does it need UVB?▾
It's not essential since it's nocturnal, but low-level UVB (UVI 1-2, a tube around 5-6%) on a regular day/night cycle benefits its overall well-being.
What is its life expectancy?▾
In captivity, with proper husbandry and feeding, it can live 10 to 15 years. Wild-caught individuals often start out weaker or more parasitised than captive-bred animals.
What are the main health risks?▾
Eggs that are too large, too cold or spoiled can cause regurgitation or digestive blockages, while the difficulty of finding correctly sized eggs sometimes leads to weight loss and deficiencies, especially in young snakes. Wild-caught specimens, very common on the market, often arrive parasitised and dehydrated; poorly regulated humidity or ventilation also increases the risk of dysecdysis and respiratory infections.
How does it reproduce?▾
It's an oviparous species, with the female laying 6 to 15 eggs after a seasonal cycle combining a cool resting period followed by rising temperatures and food availability. Incubation takes about 2.5 to 3.5 months at around 27-29 °C; breeding remains uncommon in captivity, as most animals sold are wild-caught imports.

Track your common egg-eating snake on ReptiNode

Create a free tracking log: weight, meals, sheds, health record, QR codes and breeding projects — with the built-in genetics calculator for over 200 species.

Create a free account