Red-tailed green ratsnake — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Red-tailed green ratsnake — origin: Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines). Lowland and hill tropical rainforests, where it occupies mainly the canopy and shrub layers..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min21 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side28–30 °C

A tropical-forest species sensitive to overheating: do not exceed 31-32 °C for prolonged periods. A gentle ambient gradient is sufficient; no need for an intense basking-type hotspot. A slight night-time drop (down to ~21 °C) is beneficial. Use a reliable thermostat and avoid any accessible heating element that could cause burns.

Enclosure (adult)

120 × 60 × 120 cm

Vertical arboreal terrarium, well ventilated

Minimum dimensions for an adult; larger is always preferable (150 x 60 x 150 cm is ideal). Provide numerous sturdy horizontal and diagonal branches, dense foliage (real or artificial) for security, and at least one elevated hiding spot. Good cross-ventilation is essential to avoid stagnant air while maintaining humidity.

Humidity

65–85 %

High humidity is mandatory. Mist once or twice a day and/or use a misting system, but always combine it with good ventilation: a humid, confined terrarium promotes respiratory infections and scale rot. Let the humidity drop slightly between two mistings.

Substrate

Coconut fibre / orchid bark (moisture retention)Bioactive soil with a drainage layerSphagnum moss in the humid zones

Choose a substrate that retains moisture without moulding thanks to ventilation. A bioactive setup (isopods, springtails) helps manage waste and humidity. Avoid dusty or overly dry substrates.

UVB

Optional

Beneficial for this diurnal species: low to moderate UVB (T5 tube 5-6%, Ferguson zone 1 to 2), positioned so as to create a gradient. Not strictly essential if the diet and calcium/D3 supplementation are adequate, but recommended for well-being and the expression of natural behaviours.

Water source

Always available

A large bowl of clean water refreshed regularly, plus misting: the snake often drinks the droplets on the foliage and décor. Keep the water hygienic to limit skin and mouth infections.

Origin

Colubridae

Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines). Lowland and hill tropical rainforests, where it occupies mainly the canopy and shrub layers.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore — Rodents (mice, young rats), chicks and birds; a visual hunter.

Feed mainly appropriately sized rodents (prey ≈ body diameter), every 1 to 2 weeks depending on age. In the wild it eats birds, bats and rodents; wild-caught specimens often prefer birds and may require baiting (rubbing with a chick/feather) to accept rodents. Avoid overfeeding, which is common in this active species.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 5–12 eggs/young. A clutch of 5 to 12 large eggs, sometimes several clutches per year. Incubation of about 55 to 70 days at 27-28 °C in a moist substrate. Provide a humid nesting box. Breeding is more reliable with captive-bred specimens that are well acclimatised and stress-free.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (insufficient ventilation, temperatures too low, or stagnant air)
Internal and external parasites, very common in imported wild-caught specimens
Chronic stress and food refusal (handling, lack of hiding spots/height)
Poor sheds (dysecdysis) linked to unsuitable humidity
Stomatitis (mouth rot) and scale rot in an overly humid, confined environment

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 2 documented genes for Red-tailed green ratsnake.

Axanthic (Hypothetical) aneryRec
Calico / High WhiteDom

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Red-tailed green ratsnake × Red-tailed green ratsnake

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the red-tailed green ratsnake.

How big does an adult red-tailed green ratsnake get?▾

Most adults measure between 150 and 210 cm, but some particularly large specimens exceed 2.2 m. The body is laterally compressed, ribbon-like, which gives it the rigidity needed to move between branches, and the tail is prehensile.

What kind of terrarium does it need?▾

As a strictly arboreal species, a well-ventilated vertical terrarium is essential: 120 x 60 x 120 cm minimum for an adult, though around 150 x 60 x 150 cm is closer to ideal. Provide plenty of sturdy horizontal and diagonal branches, dense foliage, and at least one elevated hiding spot.

What temperature and thermal gradient should be set up?▾

The warm side should sit between 28 and 30°C and the cool side between 24 and 26°C, with a slight night-time drop to around 21°C. This tropical-forest species tolerates overheating poorly: do not exceed 31-32°C for long periods, and use a reliable thermostat.

Does it need UVB lighting?▾

Low to moderate UVB (a T5 5-6% tube, Ferguson zone 1 to 2) is beneficial for this diurnal species, though not strictly essential if diet and calcium/D3 supplementation are well managed. It supports well-being and the expression of natural behaviours.

What humidity and substrate suit it?▾

This species needs high humidity, between 65 and 85%, achieved by misting once or twice a day while maintaining good ventilation to avoid stagnant air. Coconut fibre, orchid bark, or a bioactive mix with sphagnum moss zones all work well.

What should it be fed?▾

It feeds mainly on rodents, mice and young rats, and occasionally chicks, with one meal every 1 to 2 weeks depending on age. Wild-caught specimens often prefer avian prey and may need baiting, by rubbing the prey with a feather or a chick, to accept rodents.

Where does this species come from and how does it react to a threat?▾

The red-tailed green ratsnake is native to the humid tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines), where it lives mainly in the canopy. When threatened, it inflates its throat vertically, giving it a tall, flattened neck, gapes its mouth wide and will readily bite; its distinctive blue tongue is also a key identification feature of the species.

Can it be handled safely?▾

It is not venomous, but its bites are sharp and painful, and it is a species that tolerates handling poorly: it's best to keep handling to a minimum, favour calm movements, and use a hook rather than hands when moving it around the terrarium.

How long does it live?▾

Expect 15 to 20 years in captivity under good conditions, a commitment not to be taken lightly. Wild-caught specimens, very common in the trade, often live shorter lives due to stress and parasitism, which is why captive-bred animals are preferable.

How does this snake reproduce?▾

Oviparous, the female lays 5 to 12 large eggs, sometimes in several clutches per year. Incubation takes about 55 to 70 days at 27-28°C in a moist substrate, and a humid nesting box should be provided; breeding is more reliable with captive-bred, well-acclimatised specimens.

What health problems should be monitored?▾

Respiratory infections, linked to insufficient ventilation or temperatures that are too low, internal and external parasites very common in imported wild-caught specimens, and chronic stress leading to food refusal are the main points to watch. A terrarium that is too humid and confined also promotes stomatitis and scale rot.

Is this snake suitable for a beginner?▾

No: classed as advanced difficulty, it requires high humidity combined with precise ventilation, a nervous temperament that must be respected, and particular vigilance regarding the origin, wild-caught or captive-bred, of animals offered for sale. It is best reserved for keepers who already have experience with arboreal colubrids.

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