Husbandry requirements
Red-tailed green ratsnake — origin: Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines). Lowland and hill tropical rainforests, where it occupies mainly the canopy and shrub layers..
Terrarium temperature gradient
A tropical-forest species sensitive to overheating: do not exceed 31-32 °C for prolonged periods. A gentle ambient gradient is sufficient; no need for an intense basking-type hotspot. A slight night-time drop (down to ~21 °C) is beneficial. Use a reliable thermostat and avoid any accessible heating element that could cause burns.
Vertical arboreal terrarium, well ventilated
Minimum dimensions for an adult; larger is always preferable (150 x 60 x 150 cm is ideal). Provide numerous sturdy horizontal and diagonal branches, dense foliage (real or artificial) for security, and at least one elevated hiding spot. Good cross-ventilation is essential to avoid stagnant air while maintaining humidity.
High humidity is mandatory. Mist once or twice a day and/or use a misting system, but always combine it with good ventilation: a humid, confined terrarium promotes respiratory infections and scale rot. Let the humidity drop slightly between two mistings.
Choose a substrate that retains moisture without moulding thanks to ventilation. A bioactive setup (isopods, springtails) helps manage waste and humidity. Avoid dusty or overly dry substrates.
Beneficial for this diurnal species: low to moderate UVB (T5 tube 5-6%, Ferguson zone 1 to 2), positioned so as to create a gradient. Not strictly essential if the diet and calcium/D3 supplementation are adequate, but recommended for well-being and the expression of natural behaviours.
A large bowl of clean water refreshed regularly, plus misting: the snake often drinks the droplets on the foliage and décor. Keep the water hygienic to limit skin and mouth infections.
Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines). Lowland and hill tropical rainforests, where it occupies mainly the canopy and shrub layers.
Feeding & health
Carnivore — Rodents (mice, young rats), chicks and birds; a visual hunter.
Feed mainly appropriately sized rodents (prey ≈ body diameter), every 1 to 2 weeks depending on age. In the wild it eats birds, bats and rodents; wild-caught specimens often prefer birds and may require baiting (rubbing with a chick/feather) to accept rodents. Avoid overfeeding, which is common in this active species.
Clutch 5–12 eggs/young. A clutch of 5 to 12 large eggs, sometimes several clutches per year. Incubation of about 55 to 70 days at 27-28 °C in a moist substrate. Provide a humid nesting box. Breeding is more reliable with captive-bred specimens that are well acclimatised and stress-free.
- Respiratory infections (insufficient ventilation, temperatures too low, or stagnant air)
- Internal and external parasites, very common in imported wild-caught specimens
- Chronic stress and food refusal (handling, lack of hiding spots/height)
- Poor sheds (dysecdysis) linked to unsuitable humidity
- Stomatitis (mouth rot) and scale rot in an overly humid, confined environment
Morphs & genetics
Registry of 2 documented genes for Red-tailed green ratsnake.
- Axanthic (Hypothetical) aneryRec
- Calico / High WhiteDom
Pairing calculator
Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.
Red-tailed green ratsnake × Red-tailed green ratsnake
Probabilities per gene (independent loci).
Frequently asked questions
Answers to the most common questions about keeping the red-tailed green ratsnake.
How big does an adult Red-tailed green ratsnake get?▾
What temperature and humidity does a Red-tailed green ratsnake need?▾
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