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Species profile · Iguanidae

Iguana iguana

Complete care sheet for the green iguana — husbandry parameters, diet and breeding.

Iguane vertAmerican IguanaGrüner Leguan
Adult size
1.5–2 m
Lifespan
15–20 yrs
Difficulty
Advanced
Temperament
Diurnal
Activity
Diurnal
Reproduction
Oviparous
01

Husbandry requirements

Green Iguana — origin: Central and South America (Mexico to Brazil) — humid tropical forests, often near water. Species listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B): verify the source..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C
Cool side26–28 °C
Warm side30–33 °C
Basking spot35–40 °C

Heliophilic species: a genuine, powerful hot spot is essential, with lamps shielded against burns.

Enclosure (adult)
250 × 150 × 180 cm

Very large custom-built arboreal enclosure (often a dedicated room or aviary)

Large, sturdy branches and elevated basking platforms; commercial terrariums quickly become unsuitable.

Humidity
60–80 %

Humid environment; misting and a large water source aid hydration and shedding.

Substrate
Unfertilised topsoilCypress mulchBare bottom (easy to clean)
UVB
Recommended

ESSENTIAL and high-intensity — UVB (Ferguson zone 3–4, T5 HO 10–12%); otherwise, rapid and frequent MBD.

Water source
Always available

Large container of clean water; the animal bathes and hydrates in it; clean frequently.

Origin
Iguanidae

Central and South America (Mexico to Brazil) — humid tropical forests, often near water. Species listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B): verify the source.

02

Feeding & health

Diet

Strict herbivore — Calcium-rich leafy greens (turnip greens, dandelion, watercress, mallow, hibiscus) + assorted vegetables; NO animal protein

Animal protein causes gout and kidney damage. Calcium/D3 supplementation according to UVB.

Breeding
Oviparous

Clutch 20–40 eggs/young. The female digs to lay: provide a deep egg-laying site. Incubation ~90–100 days around 30 °C.

Health watch points
  • Metabolic bone disease (lack of UVB/calcium — very common)
  • Gout / kidney failure (excess protein, dehydration)
  • Thermal burns (unshielded lamps)
  • Egg retention (dystocia) without a laying site
  • Abscesses and injuries from aggression
05

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the green iguana.

How big can an adult green iguana get?▾
This is a very large lizard, reaching 150 to 200 cm in total length including the tail. Males are larger and heavier-bodied, sometimes approaching 2 metres, which surprises many owners who started out with a small juvenile.
Is the green iguana suitable for a beginner keeper?▾
No, it is rated advanced level. It is a demanding animal, all too often kept incorrectly because owners underestimate its adult size, UVB requirements and temperament, which can become territorial as it grows.
How much space does an adult need?▾
A very large custom-built arboreal enclosure, often a dedicated room or aviary, with a minimum of 250 x 150 x 180 cm. Thick, sturdy branches and elevated basking platforms are essential: commercial terrariums quickly become unsuitable for this arboreal, sun-loving species.
What temperatures and basking spot should be provided?▾
A genuine, powerful basking spot is essential, between 35 and 40 °C, with a warm side at 30-33 °C and a cool side at 26-28 °C, dropping to around 22 °C at night. Lamps must always be shielded against burns, as iguanas readily press themselves right against heat sources.
Does the enclosure need to be kept humid?▾
Yes, humidity of 60 to 80% is recommended. Regular misting and a large water container help with hydration and smooth shedding.
What should a green iguana eat?▾
It is a strict herbivore: calcium-rich leafy greens such as turnip greens, dandelion, watercress, mallow or hibiscus, supplemented with a variety of vegetables. Animal protein must be strictly avoided, as it causes gout and kidney damage; calcium and D3 supplementation should be adjusted according to the UVB lighting provided.
Is UVB lighting really essential?▾
Yes, and it needs to be high intensity: aim for Ferguson zone 3-4 with a 10 to 12% T5 HO tube. Without it, metabolic bone disease sets in quickly in this species, one of the most common health problems seen in captivity.
Does it need a large water source?▾
Yes, a large container of clean water must always be available: the iguana both bathes and hydrates in it, which means it needs cleaning frequently to prevent contamination.
How does it behave, and can it become aggressive?▾
It is a diurnal, arboreal animal that can become territorial as it grows; adult males can be aggressive during the breeding season, with biting and tail-whipping. Regular, consistent handling helps tame it, but it remains an animal that commands respect once fully grown.
How does the green iguana reproduce, and does it need special provisions?▾
It is an oviparous species; the female lays 20 to 40 eggs after digging a deep nesting site, with incubation lasting around 90 to 100 days at about 30 °C. Without a suitable laying site, the risk of egg retention (dystocia) rises significantly.
What are the main health problems to watch for?▾
Metabolic bone disease linked to insufficient UVB or calcium remains the most common, followed by gout and kidney failure from excess protein or dehydration. Thermal burns from unshielded lamps, egg retention without a proper laying site, and abscesses or injuries from aggression round out the list.
How long does a green iguana live, and what commitment does that represent?▾
Its lifespan is 15 to 20 years, making it a long-term commitment for an animal that will end up large, territorial and space-hungry. Its CITES Appendix II status also means the source must be verified before acquiring one.

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