African Fat-tailed Gecko — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

African Fat-tailed Gecko — origin: West Africa — dry savanna with humid hides.

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side28–30 °C

Basking spot30–32 °C

Belly heat (heat mat/DHP on a thermostat)

Enclosure (adult)

90 × 45 × 45 cm

Low terrestrial terrarium

Three hides: warm, cool and a humid hide for shedding

Humidity

50–60 %

More humid than the leopard gecko; a humid hide is essential

Substrate

Coco fibreTilePaper towel

UVB

Optional

Optional; low UVB beneficial

Water source

Always available

A small water dish at all times

Origin

Eublepharidae

West Africa — dry savanna with humid hides

Feeding & health

Diet

Insectivore — Crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms — dusted with calcium + D3

Calcium/D3 supplementation is essential (MBD prevention)

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 1–2 eggs/young. Several clutches per season; sex determined by incubation temperature

Health watch points

MBD (calcium/D3 deficiency)
Impaction
Incomplete shed (lack of humidity)
Tail loss
Cryptosporidiosis

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 7 documented genes and 1 named combos for African Fat-tailed Gecko.

AlbinoRec
Oreo (Axanthic) axanthicRec
ZuluRec
PatternlessRec
Ghost hypoRec
White OutDom
ZeroDom

Named combos — 1 documented combined morphs

White Out Oreo

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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African Fat-tailed Gecko × African Fat-tailed Gecko

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the african fat-tailed gecko.

Where does the African fat-tailed gecko come from?▾

It's native to West Africa, where it inhabits dry savanna dotted with humid hideouts — a detail that directly explains its needs in captivity.

Is it a good reptile for beginners?▾

Yes, it's a beginner-level species. Very docile and calm, often even mellower than the leopard gecko, it forgives small mistakes as long as its basic needs are met.

How big does it get as an adult?▾

Adults reach 20 to 25 cm, with a stockier, chunkier build than the leopard gecko.

What terrarium and furnishings does it need?▾

A low terrestrial terrarium of about 90 x 45 x 45 cm works well. Provide three hides: a warm one, a cool one, and a humid one — the latter being essential for a successful shed.

What temperatures should be maintained?▾

Aim for a basking spot of 30 to 32 °C, a warm zone of 28 to 30 °C, and a cool side of 24 to 26 °C, never dropping below 22 °C at night. Heat should come from below, via a heat mat or DHP, always controlled by a thermostat.

Does it need humidity?▾

Yes, more than the leopard gecko: maintain 50 to 60% humidity and, above all, provide a humid hide, which is essential to prevent incomplete sheds.

What does it eat?▾

An insectivore, it feeds on crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms, dusted with calcium and D3. This supplementation is essential to prevent metabolic bone disease.

Does it need UVB lighting?▾

UVB is optional for this nocturnal-to-crepuscular species; a low-intensity UVB tube is nonetheless beneficial.

What substrate should be chosen?▾

Coco fibre, tile, or paper towel all work well. The choice is mainly aimed at limiting the risk of impaction from ingested substrate.

How long does it live?▾

Its life expectancy is 15 to 20 years — remarkable longevity for a gecko this size.

What should you know about its behavior and tail?▾

Nocturnal and crepuscular, it's very docile but a bit shy. Its large tail, a fat reserve, can drop off if it's stressed before growing back; it's best to avoid grabbing it by the tail.

What health issues should be monitored?▾

The main ones are metabolic bone disease (calcium or D3 deficiency), impaction, incomplete shedding from low humidity, tail loss, and cryptosporidiosis.

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