Amethystine Python — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Amethystine Python — origin: Indonesia (Moluccas, eastern Lesser Sunda Islands), New Guinea and the Torres Strait islands. The Australian populations formerly assigned to this species now form the distinct species Simalia kinghorni. IMPORTANT: like all Pythonidae, the species is listed on CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B), so trade is regulated. Many specimens on the market are wild-caught: strongly favour captive-bred (CB) animals, as wild individuals are highly stressed, often parasitised and extremely defensive..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C

Cool side24–27 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

Basking spot32–34 °C

A thermal gradient across the full length of the terrarium is essential. Hot spot/thermoregulation platform 32-34 °C, warm-side ambient 30-32 °C, cool side 24-27 °C, night-time drop to 22-24 °C. Any heat source (spotlight, ceramic) must be protected by a guard and controlled by a thermostat to prevent burns, to which the species is prone.

Enclosure (adult)

240 × 120 × 150 cm

Spacious, sturdy and well-ventilated arboreal/semi-terrestrial terrarium, with solid branches and hides both up high and at ground level

Minimum dimensions for an adult; larger is always preferable for a snake of this size. Sturdy closures and locks are essential (a powerful species capable of forcing its way out). Provide branches and platforms able to bear the animal's weight.

Humidity

60–80 %

Tropical humidity 60-80%, which may rise to ~80-90% during shedding. Ensure good ventilation to avoid stagnant air and respiratory/skin problems.

Substrate

Cypress mulchCoco fibreOrchid/alder barkHumus-rich sphagnum-type mix for damp areas

A substrate that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. Keep it clean and dry at the surface to prevent scale rot; promptly remove droppings and soiled areas.

UVB

Optional

Not strictly essential (a nocturnal species), but low UVB (Ferguson zone 1, ~5%) combined with a day/night cycle is beneficial. In that case provide shaded areas and avoid direct exposure.

Water source

Always available

A large, heavy and stable water container allowing the animal to partly submerge; clean water renewed frequently. Also contributes to humidity.

Origin

Pythonidae

Indonesia (Moluccas, eastern Lesser Sunda Islands), New Guinea and the Torres Strait islands. The Australian populations formerly assigned to this species now form the distinct species Simalia kinghorni. IMPORTANT: like all Pythonidae, the species is listed on CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B), so trade is regulated. Many specimens on the market are wild-caught: strongly favour captive-bred (CB) animals, as wild individuals are highly stressed, often parasitised and extremely defensive.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore (constrictor) — Rodents and birds: rats, then rabbits/guinea pigs and poultry (chicks, quail) for large adults; thawed prey sized to the snake's girth.

Very strong and rapid feeding response: feed with a hook/tongs to avoid any anticipatory bite. Adults fed roughly every 10-21 days depending on size and condition; avoid overfeeding and obesity. Long, recurved dentition adapted to gripping feathered prey.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 10–25 eggs/young. Breeding triggered by a seasonal drop in temperature. Incubation of about 75-90 days at ~30-31 °C; the female performs maternal incubation, coiling around the clutch. A powerful and defensive species: breeding manipulations reserved for experienced keepers.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (favoured by poorly managed humidity, stagnant air or overly low temperatures)
Scale rot/dermatitis on substrate that is too damp or soiled
Mites (Ophionyssus), especially on wild-imported specimens
Stomatitis (mouth rot)
Thermal burns from unprotected heat sources
Internal parasites, common in wild specimens

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 2 documented genes for Amethystine Python.

Axanthic (Hypothetical) aneryRec
Albino (Kinghorni Gene)Rec

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

🧬

Amethystine Python × Amethystine Python

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the amethystine python.

How large can an amethystine python grow?▾

It is a large to giant snake: most adults measure between 250 and 350 cm, but the largest specimens can reach 400 to 450 cm. Its Australian cousin species, Simalia kinghorni, long confused with it, can even exceed 6 metres. The body stays relatively slender and muscular for such a length.

What terrarium should be provided for an adult?▾

Allow at least 240x120x150 cm, bearing in mind that bigger is always preferable for a snake of this size. The terrarium must be arboreal and semi-terrestrial, sturdy, with solid branches and platforms able to support its weight, as well as very reliable closures and locks, because it is a powerful species capable of forcing its way out.

Is this python dangerous to handle?▾

This species is known to be nervous, defensive and endowed with a very powerful feeding response, which has earned it the nickname of the "velociraptor" of pythons. Its long, recurved teeth inflict deep bites, and its constricting strength means that handling an adult should be reserved for an experienced keeper, ideally with two people. Some captive-bred specimens handled regularly calm down over time, but there is no guarantee.

What temperature gradient should be set up?▾

A thermal gradient is needed along the entire length of the terrarium: a thermoregulation basking spot at 32-34°C, an ambient warm side of 30-32°C, a cool side of 24-27°C, and a nighttime drop down to 22-24°C. Every heat source must imperatively be protected by a guard and controlled by a thermostat, because the species is prone to burns.

Is UVB essential?▾

It is not strictly mandatory for this nocturnal species, but a low UVB, Ferguson zone 1 around 5%, combined with a regular day/night cycle, is beneficial to it. In that case, you must also provide large shaded areas and avoid any prolonged direct exposure.

Is the humidity level tricky to manage, and with what substrate?▾

Tropical humidity should sit between 60 and 80%, with peaks up to 80-90% during sheds. A substrate that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged, such as cypress mulch, coconut fibre or orchid bark, works well, provided the surface is kept clean and not too wet to avoid scale rot.

How do you feed it without risk of being bitten?▾

This python's feeding response is very strong and fast: you must absolutely feed with a hook or tongs to avoid any anticipatory bite. Adults are given prey suited to their girth — rats, then rabbits, guinea pigs or poultry for the largest — roughly every 10 to 21 days depending on their size and condition, while avoiding overfeeding.

How long does an amethystine python live?▾

It commonly lives 20 to 25 years, and can reach around 30 years when care is optimal. It is therefore a commitment spanning several decades to anticipate carefully before acquisition.

Are there legal constraints on acquiring it?▾

Yes: like all Pythonidae, the species is listed on CITES Appendix II, Annex B of the European Union, which regulates its trade. Many available specimens are wild-caught, often stressed, parasitised and very defensive: it is therefore strongly advised to favour a captive-bred animal.

Is this python suitable for a beginner?▾

No, it is rather reserved for experienced keepers. Its size, its constriction strength, its defensive temperament and its powerful feeding response make it a demanding species, not to be entrusted as a first snake.

How does it reproduce in captivity?▾

It is an oviparous species: the female lays 10 to 25 eggs, generally after a seasonal drop in temperature, and incubates them herself by coiling around the clutch for about 75 to 90 days at 30-31°C. Handling related to breeding remains reserved for experienced breeders, the species remaining powerful and defensive.

What are the main health risks?▾

Respiratory infections are frequent when humidity is poorly managed or the air is stagnant, while an overly wet substrate promotes scale rot. Wild-imported specimens often carry mites and internal parasites, and burns can occur if heat sources are not properly protected.

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