Egyptian cobra — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Egyptian cobra — origin: North Africa, the Sahel and East Africa, extending to the Arabian Peninsula; arid and semi-arid environments and savannas. The taxon Naja haje sensu lato was recently split (N. haje, N. arabica, N. senegalensis), which qualifies some data on its distribution and biology..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min22 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

Basking spot33–35 °C

A warm-climate species requiring a genuine thermal gradient and a localized hot spot (active thermoregulation despite its nocturnal/crepuscular habits). Use a reliable thermostat and shield any heat source to prevent burns. A moderate nighttime drop is accepted.

Enclosure (adult)

180 × 90 × 90 cm

Fully enclosed, lockable and escape-proof venomous terrarium ("hot" setup), ideally with an airlock or hatch allowing feeding and maintenance at a distance.

Minimum dimensions for an adult; larger is always preferable for this active, robust species. SAFETY comes above all else: locked closures, gap-free seals, double-checking before every opening, a dedicated room. Provide sturdy hides at both ends of the gradient and a low branch (the animal rears up and explores). Keeping is strictly regulated: certificate of competence / "venomous" authorization depending on the country; the availability of a suitable antivenom and a hospital emergency protocol are essential. Species NOT listed on CITES, but subject to national regulations on dangerous animals.

Humidity

40–60 %

A rather dry to moderate atmosphere. Provide a humid hide (sphagnum moss), especially during shedding, to prevent dysecdysis; avoid stagnant humidity and a waterlogged substrate.

Substrate

Paper / paper towel (makes safe maintenance easier)Dry aspen shavingsDry savanna-type soil mix

In a venomous setup, a simple, light-colored substrate (paper) makes it easier to spot the animal and allows quick, safe cleaning. Particulate substrates must be kept dry to prevent dermatitis (scale rot).

UVB

Optional

Not essential for a snake but beneficial: low-intensity UVB (Ferguson zone 1 to 2). Maintain a regular day/night cycle.

Water source

Always available

A large container of clean water available at all times, heavy and stable enough to allow partial immersion; renew frequently.

Origin

Elapidae

North Africa, the Sahel and East Africa, extending to the Arabian Peninsula; arid and semi-arid environments and savannas. The taxon Naja haje sensu lato was recently split (N. haje, N. arabica, N. senegalensis), which qualifies some data on its distribution and biology.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore — In captivity: rodents (mice, rats) of appropriate size, thawed. In the wild: toads (a major part of the diet), birds, small reptiles and rodents.

A voracious feeder, easily conditioned to dead rodents. Avoid wild prey (toads/amphibians), which introduce parasites and toxins. Feeding exclusively at a distance (long tongs); never feed by hand. Watch for obesity from overfeeding.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 8–20 eggs/young. Clutch of 8 to 20 eggs. Incubation of about 55 to 65 days at around 28-30 °C. Breeding a venomous species requires specific facilities and experience; handling eggs and neonates is already dangerous.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (mycoplasma/bacteria) promoted by inadequate cold or humidity
Stomatitis (mouth rot)
Internal parasites, particularly in wild-caught animals and with an amphibian-based diet
Dysecdysis (difficult shedding) linked to too low humidity
Dermatitis / scale rot on damp, dirty substrate; obesity from overfeeding

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes for Egyptian cobra.

Melanistic (Genetic Black) black cobraDom
Albino (Confusion Check)Rec
Patternless / SolideDom

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Egyptian cobra × Egyptian cobra

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the egyptian cobra.

Is the Egyptian cobra dangerous, and can it be kept by a beginner?▾

Absolutely not: this is a LETHALLY DANGEROUS VENOMOUS SPECIES whose neuro- and cytotoxic venom makes every bite a medical emergency, classed as expert-level only. It must only be handled with remote restraint equipment (hooks, tubes, transfer box) and requires an antivenom protocol established in advance; it is reserved for experienced, legally authorized keepers, never for a beginner.

How large can an adult Egyptian cobra grow?▾

Most adults measure 150 to 200 cm in total length, with a documented record exceeding 240 cm. It is a heavy, stocky snake, noticeably thicker-bodied than Asian cobras.

What kind of enclosure and safety measures are required?▾

You need a fully enclosed, lockable, escape-proof venomous terrarium, ideally fitted with an airlock or hatch for feeding and maintenance at a distance, measuring at least 180 x 90 x 90 cm for an adult. Safety comes before everything else: locked closures, no gaps whatsoever, double-checking before every opening, and a dedicated room, along with sturdy hides at both ends of the thermal gradient.

What temperature gradient should be maintained?▾

This warm-climate species needs a genuine thermal gradient despite its nocturnal and crepuscular habits: a warm side at 30-32 °C, a cool side at 24-26 °C, and a localized hot spot at 33-35 °C. A reliable thermostat and shielded heat sources are essential to prevent burns, with nighttime temperatures allowed to drop to 22 °C.

What humidity level is needed, and how should shedding be managed?▾

The overall atmosphere should stay fairly dry to moderate, between 40 and 60%. A humid hide filled with sphagnum moss should be provided, especially during shedding, to prevent difficult sheds, while avoiding stagnant humidity or a waterlogged substrate.

What does an Egyptian cobra eat in captivity?▾

In captivity it feeds on thawed rodents (mice, rats) of an appropriate size, and readily takes to this diet despite a natural diet that also includes toads and birds. Feeding is done exclusively with long tongs, never by hand, and obesity must be watched for in this particularly voracious feeder.

Does it need UVB lighting?▾

This is not essential for a snake, but low-intensity UVB (Ferguson zone 1 to 2) remains beneficial. The key is maintaining a regular day/night cycle.

How long does this species live?▾

The Egyptian cobra is very long-lived, with a life expectancy of 20 to 30 years under good captive care, sometimes more. It is therefore a very long-term commitment to weigh carefully before acquiring one.

How does it reproduce, and is breeding accessible to private keepers?▾

Oviparous, it lays 8 to 20 eggs, with incubation lasting about 55 to 65 days between 28 and 30 °C. Breeding a venomous species requires specific facilities and experience, since handling the eggs and neonates is already dangerous in itself.

What are the main health problems seen in this species?▾

Respiratory infections, encouraged by unsuitable cold or humidity, and stomatitis are among the most common disorders. These are joined by internal parasites, particularly in wild-caught specimens, dysecdysis linked to too-low humidity, and dermatitis on damp, dirty substrate.

Is keeping it regulated, and does an antivenom need to be available?▾

The species is not listed on CITES but remains subject to national regulations on dangerous animals, generally requiring a certificate of competence or a specific venomous-species authorization. The availability of a suitable antivenom and a hospital emergency protocol established beforehand are non-negotiable prerequisites before any acquisition.

How does the Egyptian cobra behave when threatened?▾

It is a defensive snake that stands its ground rather than fleeing, rearing up to form a narrow, elongated hood, longer than that of the Indian cobra. It often makes intimidation strikes with its mouth closed before actually biting, which does nothing to lessen the severity of a real bite.

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