Madagascar big-headed gecko — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Madagascar big-headed gecko — origin: Southern and south-western Madagascar, in dry deciduous forests and semi-arid areas. A species very widely bred in captivity (common captive-bred stock); not listed under CITES and not protected at EU level. Captive-bred specimens are strongly recommended over wild-caught ones..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min20 °C

Cool side24–26 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

A nocturnal species: no true basking hot spot or powerful spotlight. Create a horizontal gradient with a heat mat or a heat cord/cable under part of the floor, or a low-power ceramic lamp, controlled by a thermostat. Warm ground zone 30-32 C, cool zone 24-26 C. A healthy night-time drop to 20-22 C (occasionally tolerates 18 C). Never heat the entire surface.

Enclosure (adult)

45 × 30 × 30 cm

Terrestrial terrarium (floor area is the priority)

45x30x30 cm is a minimum for a single adult; rather plan on 60 cm of length for a pair or a trio (1 male maximum, males fight). It is the floor area that matters, height is secondary. Provide multiple ground-level hides, bark, a few low branches (the species climbs a little) and at least one humid hide, which is essential. A well-sealed lid: this gecko is fast and escapes easily.

Humidity

40–60 %

An overall dry to moderate environment (40-60 %). The key element is a humid hide (moistened moss/coconut fibre) kept permanently for shedding and egg-laying. A light misting in the evening is enough; avoid stagnant humidity and insufficient ventilation.

Substrate

Terrarium soil / loam-type sand mix (little pure sand)Coconut fibrePaper towel (recommended for juveniles and quarantine phases)

Avoid pure fine sand and ingestible calcareous substrates (impaction risk), especially in juveniles. A slightly moistenable earthy mix lets females dig to lay eggs.

UVB

Optional

Not strictly essential as it is a nocturnal species, but low-intensity UVB (5-6 % tube, UV index 1-2) provides real benefits for calcium metabolism, especially in breeding females. If no UVB is provided, D3 supplementation becomes mandatory. Always provide a hide allowing escape from the UV.

Water source

Always available

A dish of fresh, clean water available at all times, renewed regularly. A light misting in the evening aids hydration and shedding; some individuals drink mainly the droplets.

Origin

Gekkonidae

Southern and south-western Madagascar, in dry deciduous forests and semi-arid areas. A species very widely bred in captivity (common captive-bred stock); not listed under CITES and not protected at EU level. Captive-bred specimens are strongly recommended over wild-caught ones.

Feeding & health

Diet

Insectivore — Crickets, roaches (Blaptica dubia, Shelfordella), mealworms and earthworms occasionally; wax moth as a rare treat. Prey smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes.

A voracious appetite and an active hunter. Feed juveniles daily, adults every 2 to 3 days. Dust the prey with calcium (with or without D3 depending on UVB) at almost every meal, and with a multivitamin supplement once a week. Leave a dish of pure calcium available at all times, especially for breeding females. Watch for obesity in overfed adults.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 2–2 eggs/young. An extremely prolific species: a clutch of 2 eggs (sometimes 1) every 10 to 14 days during the season, over long periods. Incubation at around 26-29 C for about 50 to 70 days; the incubation temperature influences the sex of the juveniles. This high laying rate depletes calcium reserves: intensive calcium supplementation is mandatory and reproductive rest periods are necessary to preserve the female.

Health watch points

Metabolic bone disease (MBD) / hypocalcaemia, very common in breeding females due to repeated egg-laying
Egg retention (dystocia) for want of a suitable laying site or through calcium depletion
Reproductive exhaustion and weight loss in females laying continuously
Difficult shedding (dysecdysis), particularly on the toes and tail, in the absence of a humid hide
Intestinal blockage (impaction) on unsuitable substrate or from prey that is too large

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes for Madagascar big-headed gecko.

Xanthic / Aurantiacum orange phaseRec
Anerythristic / SnowRec
GhostRec

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Madagascar big-headed gecko × Madagascar big-headed gecko

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the madagascar big-headed gecko.

Is the Madagascar big-headed gecko suitable for a beginner?▾

Yes, its difficulty is rated as beginner: it is a small, hardy gecko, widely captive-bred and undemanding, unlike wild-caught animals which are better avoided. It is docile but very fast, handles gently for short periods, and remains harmless to humans even though it can be nervous and leap when hunting.

How big is an adult?▾

This stocky gecko measures about 10 to 15 cm long including the tail, with a broad head and large eyes that give it its characteristic big-headed look. Males often stay a little smaller and more slender than females.

What enclosure does it need?▾

A minimum of 45 x 30 x 30 cm suits a single adult, but it is better to allow 60 cm of length for a pair or trio, bearing in mind that two males are never housed together because they fight. It is above all the floor area that matters for this terrestrial species, with multiple hides, a few low branches and a well-closed lid, since this fast gecko escapes easily.

How do you heat the enclosure of a nocturnal species?▾

Since it is not a diurnal basker, it does not need a powerful hot spot under a spotlight: a heat mat or a cable under part of the floor is enough, controlled by a thermostat, to create a warm zone at 30-32 °C and a cool zone at 24-26 °C. At night the temperature can drop to 20-22 °C, occasionally 18 °C, but the entire surface must never be heated.

Should you install UVB lighting?▾

It is not strictly essential since the species is nocturnal, but low-intensity UVB (5-6% tube, UV index 1-2) provides real benefits for calcium metabolism, especially in breeding females. In its absence, vitamin D3 supplementation becomes mandatory.

What humidity and substrate should you choose?▾

The environment stays generally dry to moderate, around 40-60%, but the key element is a permanent humid hide (moss or moistened coco fiber), indispensable for shedding and egg-laying. As for substrate, an earthy loam-type mix or coco fiber work well, avoiding pure fine sand, which poses a risk of impaction, especially in juveniles.

What does it eat and how often?▾

It is a voracious insectivore and active hunter: crickets, roaches, mealworms and sometimes earthworms, always smaller than the space between the eyes. Juveniles are fed every day, adults every 2 to 3 days, with a dusting of calcium at almost every meal and a dish of pure calcium available free-choice for breeding females.

What is its life expectancy?▾

It is between 5 and 10 years, but breeding females often live less long due to the wear caused by very frequent clutches. Limiting breeding and supplementing heavily with calcium markedly extends their longevity.

Does this gecko breed easily?▾

Very easily, almost too easily: the female lays 2 eggs (sometimes 1) every 10 to 14 days throughout the season. Incubation lasts about 50 to 70 days between 26 and 29 °C, with temperature influencing the sex of the hatchlings; this laying rate demands intensive calcium supplementation and genuine rest periods to protect the female.

What are the main risks to its health?▾

Metabolic bone disease linked to hypocalcemia is by far the most common problem in breeding females exhausted by repeated clutches, with a risk of egg retention for lack of a suitable laying site. Difficult sheds on the toes and tail in the absence of a humid hide, as well as intestinal impaction on unsuitable substrate, are the other points to watch.

Does it need a water source?▾

Yes, a dish of fresh water must be available at all times and refreshed regularly. A light misting in the evening supplements hydration and aids shedding, with some individuals preferring to drink the droplets rather than from the dish.

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