Sumatran short-tailed python — Care Sheet & Morphs

Husbandry requirements

Sumatran short-tailed python — origin: Sumatra (Indonesia) and neighbouring islands: humid forests, swamps and low-altitude floodplains..

Terrarium temperature gradient

Night min23 °C

Cool side24–27 °C

Warm side30–32 °C

A tropical lowland species SENSITIVE TO HEAT: never exceed 32-33 °C at the hottest point, as overheating is a frequent cause of mortality. No true bright hot spot is needed (nocturnal terrestrial species): favour background heat from a heat mat or radiant panel regulated by a thermostat, never in direct contact without protection (risk of burns). A slight night-time drop is tolerated.

Enclosure (adult)

120 × 60 × 45 cm

Robust horizontal terrarium or PVC enclosure; floor area is favoured over height.

Terrestrial species: floor space is paramount. Indicative minimum for an adult; an enclosure whose length is close to that of the snake (150 cm) is preferable. Provide two snug hides (warm side and cool side), good ventilation to avoid stagnant air, and secure closures. Avoid enclosures that are too tall and open, which stress the animal.

Humidity

60–80 %

Maintain 60-70% routinely, up to 75-80% during sheds. It is IMPERATIVE to combine high humidity with good ventilation: a soggy substrate and stale air promote scale rot and respiratory infections.

Substrate

Cypress mulchCoconut fibre / chipsOrchid barkSphagnum moss (as a supplement for humidity)

Choose a substrate that retains humidity without staying saturated. Remove soiling immediately and replace regularly: given the massive and infrequent volume of droppings, monitoring and an occasional full clean-out are essential. Avoid water-logged substrate against the belly.

UVB

Optional

Not essential (nocturnal species). Low-intensity UVB (low UV index, 5-6% tube) remains beneficial; above all ensure a regular day/night cycle of about 12 hours.

Water source

Always available

A large, clean and stable water container, available at all times, wide enough for an occasional soak. Renew frequently. A snake that stays abnormally submerged may signal mites or insufficient ambient humidity.

Origin

Pythonidae

Sumatra (Indonesia) and neighbouring islands: humid forests, swamps and low-altitude floodplains.

Feeding & health

Diet

Carnivore (rodents) — Rats and mice of appropriate size (thawed prey); occasionally chicks.

Very slow metabolism and a very efficient digestive system: feed in moderation (adult: one appropriate prey item roughly every 3 to 4 weeks; juveniles more often). Species very prone to OBESITY: avoid overfeeding. Droppings are infrequent (sometimes once every 3 to 6 months) but large in volume, which is normal for this species.

Breeding

Oviparous

Clutch 8–15 eggs/young. Maternal incubation: the female coils around the eggs and produces heat through muscular shivering (facultative thermogenesis). Incubation of about 2 to 3 months. Reproduction triggered by a slight cooling/seasonal cycle.

Health watch points

Respiratory infections (unsuitable temperature, stale air, poorly managed humidity)
Scale rot / bacterial dermatitis (substrate too humid or soiled)
Obesity (overfeeding, slow metabolism)
Snake mites (Ophionyssus natricis), common on imported animals
Difficult shedding (dysecdysis) if humidity is insufficient

Morphs & genetics

Registry of 3 documented genes for Sumatran short-tailed python.

Albino (T-) amelanisticRec
Caramel (T+) t-plus albinoRec
CalicoDom

Pairing calculator

Pick each parent's genotype — clutch probabilities update live. Free, no sign-up.

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Sumatran short-tailed python × Sumatran short-tailed python

Probabilities per gene (independent loci).

Expected clutchSelect at least one gene on a parent.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to the most common questions about keeping the sumatran short-tailed python.

Is the Sumatran short-tailed python suitable for a beginner keeper?▾

Its care is intermediate-level: captive-bred specimens are generally docile with regular handling, unlike wild-caught animals, which are nervous, prone to biting and acclimate poorly. Non-venomous but very muscular and powerful for its size, it is always best to choose a captive-bred animal. Like all Pythonidae, it is listed under CITES Appendix II (EU Annex B): check the regulations before any acquisition.

Why does this python huff and hiss so much?▾

This is normal defensive behaviour in this species, often described as 'vocal': it huffs, puffs and hisses loudly as soon as it feels disturbed, which is frequently mistaken for aggression or a respiratory infection. It is therefore not necessarily a sign of illness, but a temperament trait specific to the species.

How large does an adult get?▾

It is the smallest member of the short-tailed python complex, with an adult length of only 1.20 to 1.60 m. It makes up for this with an extreme build: a 1.5 m adult, with its stocky, heavily muscled body, can weigh several kilos.

What terrarium suits it?▾

As it is a terrestrial species, floor space matters more than height: provide a sturdy horizontal terrarium or a PVC enclosure of at least 120 x 60 x 45 cm, ideally with a length close to that of the snake (150 cm). Install two snug hides, one on the warm side and one on the cool side, good ventilation and secure closures; avoid tall, open enclosures, which stress it.

What temperatures should be maintained, and what pitfall should be avoided?▾

This tropical lowland species is sensitive to heat: never exceed 32-33 °C at the hottest spot, as overheating is a frequent cause of death. A true bright basking spot is not necessary given its nocturnal, terrestrial lifestyle; favour background heat (heat mat or radiant panel) always controlled by a thermostat, with a cool side at 24-27 °C and a slight nighttime drop tolerated.

What humidity level and what ventilation?▾

Aim for 60 to 70 % day-to-day, up to 75-80 % during sheds. High humidity must always be paired with good ventilation: a waterlogged substrate in stagnant air promotes scale rot and respiratory infections.

Which substrate to choose?▾

Cypress mulch, coco fibre or coco chips, orchid bark, possibly supplemented with sphagnum moss for humidity, all work well. Remove soiling as soon as it appears and avoid a water-saturated substrate against the snake's belly.

What does it eat and how often?▾

Appropriately sized thawed rats and mice are enough, occasionally chicks. Its metabolism is very slow and its digestion very efficient: an adult is satisfied with one prey item roughly every 3 to 4 weeks, juveniles a little more often. The species is very prone to obesity: avoid any overfeeding, even if the meals seem far apart.

Why does this snake defecate so rarely?▾

This is normal in this species: its very efficient digestive system means it sometimes only defecates once every 3 to 6 months, but in a large amount each time. Regular monitoring and an occasional full clean-out of the enclosure remain necessary.

Is a water bowl needed?▾

Yes, a large, clean, stable water bowl must be available at all times, wide enough for an occasional soak, and refreshed frequently. If the snake stays submerged abnormally, this can signal mites or insufficient ambient humidity.

Is UVB lighting necessary?▾

It is not essential given its nocturnal lifestyle, but low-intensity UVB (5-6 % tube) remains beneficial. The main thing is to provide a regular day/night cycle of about 12 hours.

How does it reproduce, and what are the main health risks?▾

It is an oviparous species: the female lays 8 to 15 eggs and incubates them herself by generating heat through muscular shivering, for an incubation of about 2 to 3 months after a slight seasonal cooling. On the health side, watch above all for respiratory infections linked to poorly managed temperature or humidity, scale rot on overly damp substrate, obesity from overfeeding and mites, which are common on imported animals.

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